How to spend 48 hours in Padstow
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Time it right and a holiday in Cornwall can feel as far-flung as the Mediterranean; golden sands, sea swims, postcard-perfect sunsets and a food scene to rival the best. No wonder it’s such a popular spot in summer. But as idyllic as this sounds, I’ve never actually visited in peak season, preferring to avoid the crowds and explore without the lingering anxiousness that comes with hoping for good weather. Every visit has been lovely, and every season I’ve added something new to my (now fairly endless) recommendations list.
In February, we took ice-cold swims in Trevone’s natural saltwater pool before running back to our cosy Airbnb by the sea. It was exhilarating, and staying ‘home’ to thaw out by the open fire while hot tea brewed on the stove felt indulgent (read: essential) instead of lazy. In April, we sampled local wine at a cute independent coffee-meets-wine-bar on Mawgan Porth, and deemed it warm enough for generous scoops of clotted cream ice-cream as we wandered boutiques and old-school sweet shops in Newquay. In October, we secured a table at one of the hardest restaurants to get into on Fistral Beach where we gorged on seafood so good we still talk about it today. But while the activities have been varied, one thing I’ve done on almost every visit is head to the pretty town of Padstow. What I can attest to is this: there’s enough to do here and in the surrounding area to fill a week, let alone 48 hours. Here’s how I'd spend a weekend in Padstow.
WILL SLATERStay
Plum Cottage
When you picture the perfect Cornish cottage, what springs to mind? If it’s traditional architecture, exposed wood beams, an open fireplace and cosy reading corners, then you may as well be imagining Plum Cottage. Its location, just steps from the town and (crucially) Padstow’s best bakeries, is second to none if driving anywhere is the last thing on your mind. We checked in long after nightfall, unpacked the fridge-filler essentials we’d brought and fell straight into the comfier-than-a-cloud four-poster bed to sleep off the journey. Black-out curtains and the sound of the sea made for an excellent rest, and waking up here, two full days ahead of us, was heavenly. Little touches left by owners Jess and Ash made the place feel like our own. Local jam, scones and clotted cream, and a crabbing line were perched on the kitchen island, and a tin of carefully selected recipe cards inspired me to make use of the fully equipped kitchen, even if only once during our stay. Even though Padstow is, in its essence, a tourist town, staying here made it feel like home and the ease of popping back to the house meant we were able to enjoy it to its fullest. Read the full review here.
@lateef.photographyPadstow Townhouse
Padstow Townhouse is all about locality, and the team on site couldn’t be prouder of the seaside town they call home. In the rooms, welcome treats at the start of the stay and the end of the day feel like timely, personalised gifts. We had hot chocolate served as part of our turn-down service – a very welcome touch after an especially blustery afternoon walk on the coast. Teamed with a few snacks from the Kitchen Pantry, which runs on an honesty box system, it wasn’t long until we felt fully revived and ready to head out into the evening. Not far to go, though, as the Michelin-starred No. 6 Restaurant was just downstairs, and well worth our visit. Venturing out in the morning was easy from here, too, as the hotel’s spot on the high street means zipping out for a flat white quickly became a non-negotiable part of Padstow living.
Jake EasthamThe Pig, Harlyn Bay
The Pig isn’t technically in Padstow, but it really isn’t far, and it’s so beautiful that you’ll happily take the short drive to the town for a Cornish pasty or a bag of chips. It’s set back from the coast and a quick walk / sty-hop away from Harlyn Bay – one of my favourite beaches in Cornwall and a haven of tranquillity first thing in the morning. Once you’ve paced the sand, take a coffee from Beach Box (the friendly open-air cafe) to the top of the hill and sit on the grass to watch the waves. Back at the hotel, breakfast is a memorable affair. Every one of The Pig hotels champions a 25-mile menu, so produce is locally grown and deliciously fresh. This is true of its on-site restaurant, The Lobster Shack, too, which serves up seafood and homegrown veg surrounded by the property's verdant grounds. Leave feeling wholesome and full to the brim of scrumptious Cornish fare.
EAT
Barnaby's
My favourite thing about eating out in Cornwall is that even the best restaurants feel casual and unpretentious – they’re confident enough to let the menu do the talking. Barnaby's is this in a nutshell. The happy buzz that fills the space originates in the kitchen and extends to every single table throughout our lunchtime visit. Everyone, from staff to guests of all ages, is relaxed and enjoying their time. It’s a drive away from Padstow town, and surrounded by its own vineyard with a terrace that makes me long for sunnier times, one that looks dangerously easy to spend all afternoon and evening in. The food is sublime. Small plates fill the table as and when they’re ready, and we feast on chunky sourdough bread, Porthilly oysters and the kind of artichoke hummus you could eat by the spoonful. Teamed with local sparkling, it’s a winning combination. Skewers of chicken thighs, mushrooms topped with whipped tahini and crab toast follow, and despite there not being a specific kids' menu, the team produces fish fingers and an unspiced portion of its much-loved crushed potatoes to keep everyone smiling. We leave mentally booking our return, so we can sample the plates we simply didn’t have the space for.
Book your table here.
Prideaux Walled Garden
Every now and then, you stumble across a place that makes you realise why the phrase ‘hidden gem’ was ever used in the first place. And despite the cliche, there’s no better way to describe Prideaux Walled Garden on Duke Street. Inconspicuous from the outside, it’s only the prop-up chalkboard menu that even hints there’s anything to be found at the top of a stone staircase that appears to lead to the back of someone’s house. But take the climb and discover a thriving kitchen garden that fuels the tiny adjoining cafe. We planned our visit to escape the rain, and the open fire and pots of pretty flowers on each wooden table made it a welcome reprieve. Not to mention the still-warm freshly baked cookies, free pour filter coffee and bowl of crunchy granola we ordered as mid-morning fuel.
Find out more here.
Sam A HarrisSeafood Bar & Fishmongers
No Padstow restaurant round-up would be complete without at least one Rick Stein entry – the real estate ownership here is absolutely undeniable. For something super casual but oh-so in demand, brave the queue at Stein’s Fish & Chips where the menu extends far beyond the classics. Top tip: battle the temptation to sit by the harbour unless dodging swooping seagulls is on your Padstow wishlist – they’re genuinely as brave as the rumours suggest. But my personal recommendation is the Seafood Bar & Fishmongers where high stools surround sociable sharer tables, chefs prep platters in the middle of the room and the bar serves up crisp, bubbling champagne that makes any visit feel like a celebration.
Book a table here.
Richard Baker/Getty ImagesPlay
Take the ferry to Rock
Speedboat rides are a fun and fancy way to see the sites, which include a host of ridiculously outlandish homes and a lot of water. But for something more attainable price-point wise, take the £3 a ticket ferry to Rock from Padstow for the afternoon, packing a bucket and spade for its sandy shores and stopping for lunch at Four Boys to enjoy grilled mackerel, monkfish ceviche and mussels overlooking the beach.
gollykim / GettyWalk the coast
Whether you’ve planned a Cornwall trip around every one of its recommended coastal walks or a token stroll on the cliffs is enough to tick the box, Padstow is a good place to start. If you’re staying in the town itself, following the circular route along the path to Tregirl’s Beach, around Stepper Point, before heading back to the town is a lovely option. It takes about 2 hours and passes some beautiful spots that you wouldn’t otherwise see. For something more challenging, walk 7 miles along the coast to Harlyn Bay, making The Lobster Shack at The Pig or a beer at the beach your finish line before following the same route back. Feeling adventurous? Pitstop here and continue in the same direction until you reach Trevone Bay. Look out for the saltwater pool at low tide and cool off with a dip before picnicking on the sand to watch the surfers in good weather.
The Lobster Hatchery
The Lobster Hatchery is worth dropping into to learn about how this charitable cause is keeping the species (and the industry) alive. And, of course, as a way of supporting the local community. There’s an £8 entry fee and inside live hundreds of tiny lobsters just waiting to be released back into the sea. Learn from the staff, who are on hand to explain exactly how it all works, and who are clearly passionate about what they do. We found out that if a fisherman catches and keeps a pregnant lobster, there’s a hefty penalty fine, and were humbled by the fact a female lobster can carry up to 100,000 eggs during her 9-month pregnancy.