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There's not a lot left unsaid about the South of France. Its allure is well-documented, its paths – from the sleepy villages and light-bathed vineyards of Provence to the glittering, glitzy coastline of the French Riviera – well-trodden. So when we heard that Louis Vuitton was hosting its 2026 Cruise Show in an often-overlooked corner of the region, our ears pricked up.
Avignon, the capital city of the Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur region, is frequently passed by in favour of some of the region's bigger hitters: arty Arles, flashy Cannes, gritty Marseille. Set on the banks of the Rhône River, this was once the home of seven successive popes during the Avignon Papacy in the 14th century. The medieval Gothic Palais des Papes, an astonishing UNESCO World Heritage Site, still stands as the city's centre today, acting as the unlikely backdrop for the Louis Vuitton fashion show more than 700 years later.
These days, much of Avignon's historic walled centre – one of the best examples of a medieval fortress city – are UNESCO protected, including the cathedral, the bridge (perhaps one of the few things most of us do remember about Avignon from school, thanks to the catchy French class ditty 'Sur le Pont d'Avignon') and the Musée du Petit Palais. Each summer, Festival d'Avignon – like a French Fringe – takes over here, with the streets lined with performers. It's one of the world's largest festivals for performing arts, and visiting the city in July means soaking up an infectious, youthful atmosphere.
Away from the main sites, you'll find streets where the famous Provençal sunlight bounces off buttery limestone walls, shops with pretty pastel façades and olive-hued shutters, and lively squares where cafés and restaurants spill brightly coloured tables and chairs onto the cobbles. This is our mini-guide to the city that should be on your next South of France road trip – including where to stay, where to visit on a day trip, and where to eat.
Where to eat and drink in Avignon
Those in the market for fine dining won't be disappointed eating out here – the town has two Michelin-starred restaurants: open-kitchen Pollen, where chef Mathieu Desmarest serves pared-back dishes, and La Mirande, which has a Michelin star and a green Michelin star, nodding to its commendable sustainable ethos. Bib Gourmand-recognised Bibendum is also overseen by Desmarest: a wine and cocktail bar with tables in the courtyard for tucking into Mediterranean, seasonal ingredients.
At the more casual end of the spectrum, there are countless bistros, cafés and brasseries to stumble upon, tucked into snoozy side streets or perched on sun-baked squares. L'Épicerie de Ginette, on Place des Corps Saints, is the place for tartines (open-faced sandwiches), cheese and charcuterie plates, or salads. Les Halles is a covered, century-old market for stocking up on picnic bits or grabbing a quick rosé.
Where to stay in Avignon
La Divine Comedie, Avignon
La Divine Comédie, which opened in 2018 after a seven-year restoration across its five rooms and is now one of our favourite hotels in the South of France, is squirrelled away down an unassuming, unsigned road. This maison d’hôtes (bed and breakfast), run by Parisian owners Gilles Jauffret and Amaury de Villoutreys, was once a residence for cardinals – appropriate, given its location a few feet from the Palais des Papes. These days, the bedrooms each have their own character, with antiques, oil paintings and trinkets on display. The vast garden has a pool, and there's a petit spa, too. From about £350.
Hôtel de l'Atelier
Sky-blue shutters, jasmine stretching across the butter-hued 16th-century façade – Hôtel de l'Atelier is a sweet, wallet-friendly option. Technically a little outside of Avignon's UNESCO-protected city walls in Villeneuve-lès-Avignon, it's a great option for those looking to retreat and recharge at unbelievably good prices. From £81
Le Nid
If you'd rather have a place to call your own than a hotel room, this 14th-century village house turned Airbnb sleeps three in its polished, Scandi-style apartment. The bedroom has views over the city, and neutral colours, glossy tiles and plentiful blonde wood give the place a soothing, polished feel.
Day trips from Avignon
Saint-Rémy-de-Provence
This pretty little town, about a 30-minute drive from Avignon, also has intact ancient city walls, pretty cobbled streets and a buzzing community life, but in a much smaller, sleepier setting. Visit on Wednesday mornings to browse the weekly market, which takes over most of Saint-Rémy-de-Provence.
Eygalières
Even smaller than Saint-Rémy-de-Provence, and just 15 minutes up the road, Eygalières is a popular pit-stop with cyclists who flock here for the surrounding craggy, limestone hills. The main thoroughfare is dotted with pretty cafés, shops and restaurants.
L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue
Provence's famous antique town is a hit with treasure seekers, who snoop around its flea markets and bric-a-brac shops (more than 350 of them) which line the river and canals that snake around the town. There are also art galleries to browse, and a lively market comes to town on Sundays.
Arles
The artsy city of Arles, where Vincent Van Gogh produced some of his most famous works and still draws creatives today, sits just under an hour away from Avignon, but it's worth the journey. LUMA, the modern art complex, is a major force behind its enduring reputation. There are also some lovely hotels in Arles, if you'd like to make a twin-stop break out of it.