The best hotels in Tuscany
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Time was, to stay in rural Tuscany was either to rent a villa or stay in a draughty castle that had been turned into a “luxury hotel” with Medieval plumbing. How different things are now. Since its first cautious steps in the 1990s, the new Tuscan hotel scene has come on apace. Some of those who have opened stylish places to stay amidst the region’s cypress-studded hills are wine producers; some come from the world of fashion, while others arrived here from far-flung lands and simply fell in love with the place. The result is a varied offering that stretches from whole rural villages transformed into resort hotels to small boutique offerings within the walls of charming hilltop towns. Here we harvest some of the best hotels in Tuscany.
What month is best for Tuscany?
We'd recommend visiting in spring (April to May) or early autumn (September) as the weather tends to be at its mildest during these months. June is also lovely if you want to see the sunflower blooms, with temperatures averaging 27C. Tuscany is always beautiful but the summer months (July-August) see increasing temperatures with the daily average maximum sitting at 30˚C.
How many days do you need in Tuscany?
We recommend booking a seven-day trip so that you can experience all that Tuscany has to offer. You'll want to enjoy your Tuscan country hotel, but leave plenty of time to explore Cortona and Siena, with stops at the legendary vineyards of Chianti and Montepulciano.
How we choose the best hotels in Tuscany
Every hotel on this list has been selected independently by our editors and written by a Condé Nast Traveller journalist who knows the destination and has stayed at that property. When choosing hotels, our editors consider both luxury properties and boutique and lesser-known boltholes that offer an authentic and insider experience of a destination. We’re always looking for beautiful design, a great location and warm service – as well as serious sustainability credentials. We update this list regularly as new hotels open and existing ones evolve.
Pieve Aldina
With 11 open properties and a busy pipeline ahead, the French hotel group Les Domaines de Fontenille has spent the past eight years quietly building a band of committed guests who will follow it beyond its Gallic heartland and into the rolling hills of Tuscany. That’s where you’ll find Pieve Aldina, a gorgeous, 22-room former bishop’s residence in the Chianti countryside, perched next to the stunning 10th-century Santa Maria Novella chapel.
The elegance of the hotel – with its cool colour palette, dark woods and relaxed, unfussy furnishings – makes it easy to be caught off guard by historical details; if you doze off during one of Veronica’s excellent massages, you’ll awake to gaze at the treatment room’s pleasingly bulging, 17th-century ceiling. Rooms and suites mix contemporary, peaceful minimalism and semi-restored grandeur. Number four features original ornate wallpaper tastefully reinvigorated and a bathroom accessible by a little curved ramp that reminds one of commuting to an ancient wine cellar. Said slope and much of the hotel are tiled in terracotta, one of the many treasures that emerge from the region’s rich soil.
Plentiful olive groves and vineyards and a clutch of medieval towns with excellent trattorias thrive. These business owners comprise a network of friendly faces scattered across the nearby valleys, all known well to the staff at Pieve Aldina, many of whom grew up nearby. Gardener and local boy Christiano daily furnishes the rooms with flowers from his burgeoning Italianate plot; general manager Fausto has a palpable sense of excitement over being at the helm; and head chef Nico patiently enacts pasta-making classes with a mischievous charm. It’s in the food that the marriage of the French hotel group and the locale is most identifiable; while Nico and his team’s menus – from truffle tasting to homestyle sharing, with the latter featuring an exquisite pappa al pomodoro – are squarely Tuscan, the breakfast croissants, we were assured, are French through and through. Dieu merci! Suzie McCracken
hotelBorgo Santo Pietro, Tuscany
Borgo Santo Pietro sits among some 300 acres of undulating organic farmland, woods and well-developed gardens in the Tuscan countryside. The main house appears to have been built at around the same time as the nearby Abbey of San Galgano, in the mid-13th century. A Danish couple, Jeanette and Claus Throttrup, bought the estate in 2001. The farm was still active but the house had been uninhabited for decades and was more or less derelict.
Today, there are 22 rooms, eight in the main house (including the vast Santo Pietro Grand Suite, with its long first-storey balcony and sweeping views across the valley), the rest in individual cottages neatly aligned along a leafy avenue. The cottages have been added in stages in the years since the Thottrups acquired Borgo but harmonise nicely with the original house. Interior style is difficult to characterise – Italian-country-housey up to a point (timber beams, stone floors, fireplaces with tall, tapered chimney breasts, lime-plastered walls, charming murals depicting rustic landscapes in muted tones) but with various foreign elements present as well (most notably and unsurprisingly a Danish element, expressed not so much through objects as a certain uncluttered restraint and coolness of palette).
Food is an integral part of the experience. Trattoria sull’Albero delivers farm-to-table regional classics (plus superb Neopolitan-style pizza) in a wonderfully convivial space built around an ancient oak tree. Borgo’s fine-dining restaurant reopened in 2022 under a new name, Saporium, and a new executive chef, Ariel Hagen (who also oversees its sister restaurant in Florence). Steve King
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Durston SaylorhotelRosewood Castiglion del Bosco
At Rosewood Castiglion del Bosco, suites and villas are authentically ancient from the outside and sensuous, modern and smart on the inside. Here, red wine is globally renowned among oenophiles and crafted at the working vineyard. The food – specifically the wild boar and truffle pasta – is last meal worthy. Among the guests you’ll find a mix of Italians, other Europeans and Americans dripping with good taste – including, at one point, former president Barack Obama himself. Such a crowd, blended with the fantastically attractive surroundings, immediately inspires connotations of cult tragi-drama White Lotus, though minus the simmering tension and murder mystery.
17th and 18th century villas have been restored to feel like an understated yet ravishing home rather than a hotel. Little touches ensure this: mismatched sun hats for guests, the framed photos and artworks and some surprisingly bold kitchen tiles, combined with colour schemes and hand-made ceramics, marble, antiques and fabrics that reflect the warm colours of the rolling Tuscan hills outside (best marvelled at from each villa’s private heated pool). The 42 suites – with 19 more reportedly planned – have toweringly high ceilings, wooden beams, tastefully pared-back four posters and roomy terraces to spread out on. They too feel homely, allowing you to dream that you are an Italian-American fashion heir for the duration of your stay. The majority of staff both on site and in the spa are local, and while such a prestigious location could be intimidating: instead the team ensures you feel constantly welcomed and catered for. Becky Lucas
hotelCastello di Vicarello
This restored 12th-century castle surely offers one of Tuscany's most spectacular stays. If these walls could talk, they’d have more than 800 years' worth of material – something that plays on your mind as you stroll around the sprawling estate. It offers a fairytale Tuscan escape far from the madding crowd – where afternoons are soundtracked by little more than the distant chirp of birds and the occasional huff from Uva, the resident Labrador-Maremma cross. No two suites are the same, each equally unique in history and character. In the restaurant, simple, seasonal ingredients are essential. Like a Tuscan home, the property’s hub of culinary activity sits at the heart of the estate, and guests are free to amble past chefs at work on the way to supper. There's an on-site spa with a Bali-esque hut beside the largest swimming pool; an idyllic spot for therapists to offer targeted and full-body treatments, dousing aching muscles in Comfort Zone essential oils.
Precise Tale Poggio Alla Sala
Up a sweeping drive to an imposing building of pinkish stone standing sentry above the vineyards below, not far from the historic town of Montepulciano, Precise Tale Poggio Alla Sala is a magnificently curated sprawl deep in the verdant Tuscan countryside.
Despite its imposing size, I was instantly struck by the relaxed and breezy feel of the place upon arrival. My room continued this spacious and breezy feel, with panoramic views of the rolling hills outside and frescoed ceilings perfect for gazing at from the four-poster princess bed. If it wasn't for my nagging stomach, I could have happily holed up here for hours just drinking in the plush surroundings. However, the hunger won out, so I wasted little time heading to the pool bar for a casual bite before plunging into the cooling waters of one of the three on-site pools. Later, I booked into the spa for a relaxing full-body massage, choosing my preferred texture scrubs and scented oils before feeling like I was melting as all the kinks and knots of the last 90 days were eased out of me over a 90-minute full-body massage.
We practically floated down to La Via Della Seta for dinner – the more elevated dining option on-site. The menu is curated by Cordon Bleu Master Ronen Dovrat Bloch and is a real showcase of the best locally sourced produce (not forgetting the wine, of course). Highlights include a melt-in-the-mouth braised ox cheek, fresh polenta with jumbo prawns and the best tiramisu we found in the region so far – and trust me, there had been some pretty extensive taste-testing.
From every last forkful to every tiny thought-out detail, quiet indulgence is everywhere here. Lucy Bruton
Address: Via Poggio alla Sala, 10, 53045 Montepulciano SI
ALESSANDRO MOGGI/La RoqqahotelLa Roqqa, Porto Ercole
Featured on our 2024 Hot List of the best new hotels in the world
It’s been eons since a new hotel graced Porto Ercole, a chic but discreet village on the Monte Argentario peninsula that’s home to Caravaggio’s tomb. The newcomer creating ripples on this part of the rock-strewn Maremma coastline is petite La Roqqa, a cliffside retreat whose distinctive coral-orange façade and secluded views of the Tyrrhenian Sea provide a forward-looking alternative to Hotel Il Pellicano, the area’s sine qua non grande dame since 1965. In the 55 rooms and suites, floor-to-ceiling windows let sunshine flood onto walls of sage green or Terra di Siena orange, which pop against crisp white bed linen. Designers Palomba Serafini, Milanese masters of uncluttered contemporary chic, have mixed midcentury pieces and Gaetano Pesce’s iconic Up chairs with ultramodern features, including an eye-catching white central staircase spiralling from the entrance. On the alfresco rooftop, Ferragamo-clad locals sip Negronis gilded by sunset rays in view of the 16th-century Forte Stella and harbour yachts below. Aperitivo hour turns into dinner at the outdoor Scirocco restaurant, where chef Francesco Ferretti knocks up fresh sea bass and other local seafood capped with Venetian grappa. Days spent lounging at the hotel’s smart Isolotto Beach Club are broken up by lunches of avocado and tuna salads paired with a local white. Or you can ask friendly staff to book you a Vespa tour along the rugged coast. It’s La Dolce Vita reimagined for the next generation. Erin Florio
Address: Via Panoramica, 7, 58018 Porto Ercole GR, Italy
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Fabio Semeraro/Vocabolo MuscatellihotelVocabolo Moscatelli
Featured in our hot list of the best new hotels in the world
Relaxed luxury is the name of the game at this intimate member of Design Hotels in a restored monastery in Umbria, Italy’s green heart. The hotel is set on a 2.5-acre estate planted with a vegetable garden and replete with manicured lawns where dogs can play. A hub for the local community, this hotel draws Italians and ex-pats from the neighbouring towns, who come to sip creative cocktails at the bar, enjoy Sunday lunch at the restaurant, or attend events hosted by the owners. There are just 12 rooms, which juxtapose the ancient monastery’s stone walls with sleek contemporary art and design. The beds, for example, are each bespoke creations in minimalist silhouettes and bold colours made by fourth-generation ironsmith Emanuele Lispi. In the afternoon and evening, the on-site restaurant transforms into a showcase for the chef, who brings Middle Eastern and Asian flavours to this very traditional part of Italy. Start with a creative cocktail or glass of wine in the lounge, which feels more like a living room than a hotel bar, and then settle in for a culinary voyage in the restaurant, where you might start with ramen in Umbrian beef broth with smoked duck breast and end with bread pudding with ricotta, pistachios, and vanilla cream perfumed with rose water. Laura Itzkowitz
Address: Via del Refari 2 Calzolaro di, 06019 Umbertide PG, Italy
Beatrice RamellaLa Pescaia Resort
A few years back, two sisters from Milan came to the Maremma – a wild, ruggedly handsome swathe of the southern Tuscan coast and hinterland – to sell a farm estate that belonged to their father. Instead, they and their Argentinian husbands ending up moving in, and turning the place into one of the area’s most delightfully laid-back country hotels. Maremma is a horsey kind of place and there’s a riding school on site, but La Pescaia is utterly charming whether you canter or not.
There are just 14 rooms, most in the 19th-century villa at the centre of the estate, plus a pair of apartments well suited to small families. Heirloom antiques, four-poster beds with billowing linen curtains and fresh flowers everywhere strike an elegantly retro note. It’s the kind of place that invites you to channel your inner Tuscan aristocrat, and the strictly locally sourced, organic food served at the in-house restaurant is exactly what a Maremman marchese and marchesa of today would tuck into as they discuss the olive harvest and watch the kids play under the ancient cedar tree on the lawn. Lee Marshall
Address: Località Pescaia, 58036 Sticciano Scalo GR, Italy
MATTIA AQUILACastelfalfi
A 50-minute drive from both Pisa and Florence yet surrounded by unspoilt Tuscan countryside, this ancient 1,100-hectare working estate comprises vineyards, olive groves, a borgo (village), hotel, spa and golf course. It was bought by Indonesian entrepreneur Sri Prakash Lohia in 2021 who hasn’t wasted any time in going full throttle on improvements, from a refresh of the rooms (choose between the stone-coloured modern new-build or more traditional interiors in the old tobacco warehouse across the road) to a new kids’ club and adventure park with zip lines, a climbing wall and archery. A short stroll away, the borgo has a peaceful garden, a church and a medieval castle which houses a fine dining restaurant (the views from the terrace at sunset are magical). Other excellent dining spots include casual trattoria Il Rosmarino for pizza, all-day dining at Olivina and the Country Club House, which makes for a lovely lunch (the octopus pasta is delicious). There are masses to do – catch-and-release carp fishing on the lake, falconry with a Harris hawk, cooking classes – which means that once you check in, there’s little reason to leave. A more recent addition is the new RAKxa Wellness Spa – 1,500 square metres of serene wellness spaces including seven treatment rooms, two saunas, a steam room, a relaxation area, a salon and a granite-lined indoor/outdoor heated infinity pool with breath-taking hillside views. Emma Love
Address: Località Castelfalfi, 50050 Montaione
Jaroslaw PawlakLa Bandita Townhouse
There’s been a tectonic shift in the Tuscan accommodation scene in recent years as increasing numbers of people seek out the warm embrace of one of the region’s hilltowns rather than the isolation of a country villa or castle hotel. Hotelier John Voigtmann’s stylish 12-room nest in the centre of oh-so-pretty Pienza, opened in 2013 with interiors by London studio Ab Rogers Design, might feature as the trend ambassador. Housed in a former convent, it’s become part of the life of this delightful small town with its where’s-my-camera sunset views over the Val d’Orcia.
Come for aperitivi or dinner in the funky downstairs restaurant, ably helmed by Scottish chef David Mangan, and you’ll see as many locals as hotel guests. Rooms are cool, light-filled refuges – part Tuscan rustic chic (exposed stone walls, huge Corten-framed mirrors), part cool urban Moderism. You can see exactly why many of the cast and crew of cult TV series Succession stayed here when they were filming nearby. Lee Marshall
Address: Corso il Rossellino, 111, 53026 Pienza SI, Italy
Borgo Pignano
The billionaire owner (Cardiff via Silicon Valley) and charming GM Luciano Lusardi (ex Borgo Egnazia and Verdura) have created an almost-too-good-to-be-true country estate within 750 acres of organic farmland (olive groves, vineyards, fields and woods) where butterflies swarm on sprawling lavender and the soundtrack is birdsong. This biodynamic hideaway has 14 rooms, plus smaller cottages and a farmhouse for 20 but they take bookings so strategically you’ll feel you practically own the place.
All produce is from the land itself: free range pigs, hens and bees provide all you see on your plate, there is an onsite bakery (using flour they mill) and garden kitchen overflowing with herbs and vegetables. Olive oil and organic lavender bathroom soaps and potions are all made in-house too – and you can buy them to take away. The Al Fresco restaurant is great for a wood-fired pizza and zingy fresh salad but on the other end of the scale Villa Pignano whips up epic tasting menus fusing all sorts of unexpected combinations – there’s ravioli with blue cheese and white chocolate, and a surprisingly successful lamb with lavender and almonds. Impressively the wine list is, without exception, Tuscan and biodynamic. However, before you eat, the biggest draw is Francisco, the handsome bearded mixologist with his terrace bar overlooking the hills. He’s more famous than the entire estate and makes a mean Negroni.
By day the activities are endless – trekking, horse-riding, yoga, mountain biking, truffle hunting. There’s a billiard room, library and even a ballroom. Painting classes are also on offer; pupils from The Royal Drawing School visit every summer as part of their curriculum. All that’s asked is they leave one of their works behind as the owners are art obsessives and have even opened a vast gallery selling work that is littered throughout the estate. The spa is brand new and, like everything else, deeply tasteful – exposed stone, handmade oils, properly authentic, switch-off-style treatments. Then there’s the pool. The chicest pool in all Tuscany. It’s infinity but in a Slim Aarons way, carved out of a limestone quarry. The staff are fantastically caring, always on hand to help, but never hovering in that claustrophobic way. And the upkeep is meticulous. Sleep is taken seriously too, and the rooms are staggering. Many have original frescos, four poster beds, even grand pianos.
Address: Borgo Pignano, Volterra, Province of Pisa, Italy
Castello di Casole
This imposing, buff-coloured castle in Casole d'Elsa may date back 1,000 years, but its heyday wasn't until the 1960s when it was bought by Edoardo Visconti di Modrone Erba – the brother of Italian film director Luchino Visconti – who hosted parties for Hollywood stars and the Euro elite. Today, after a full restoration and an acquisition by Belmond in 2018, the castello and its 1,700-hectare estate is run impeccably as a hotel.
Despite the shiny branded management, there's a sensitivity to the design and an attempt at Tuscan-style that prevents it from feeling too overtly plush or featureless. Eighteen of the 39 bedrooms are in the historic main building, all traditionally furnished with ornately carved wooden beds, exposed honeyed-brick walls and Carrara marble bathrooms.
The rest of the rooms – the Limonaia suites, previously housing lemon trees in the winter, and the nine Oliveto suites, which was constructed by Italian designer Alessandro Mendini – have been converted and are more contemporary. In the terrific spa, there are hot-stone massages and deep-cleansing facials beneath barrel-vaulted ceilings.
The serious food served in Tosca, the restaurant of Castello di Casole headed by executive chef Daniele Sera, has excellent local wines and the spectacular sunsets across the valley all make this place feel grown-up, but families are well looked after too.
Address: Castello di Casole, A Belmond Hotel, Tuscany, Località Querceto, Casole d'Elsa, Province of Siena, Italy
Castel Monastero
There's something rather medieval about arriving at this colossal hotel near Siena at night. After winding up to its walls through the countryside in the pitch black, guests are greeted by huge doors, swung open by a man dressed in a cape.
In the 11th century, this was a monastery surrounded by vineyards and chestnut groves, then a castle and the country residence of the aristocratic Chigi family (who produced a pope and owned this spot for some 900 years). Many of the 76 rooms and suites are still clustered around the main piazza, each of them softly masculine with moodily muted decor, yet also subtly individual with original beams, terracotta floors and either a fresco of the surrounding countryside or a huge wooden bathtub in the bedroom.
In the evening, the square – like any self-respecting Italian village – hums with aperitivo activity. Much is made of Gordon Ramsay's hand in the menus at Contrada restaurant (in fact, he only visits a few times a year, and resident chef Nello Cassese's refined Tuscan-with-a-twist creations shine by themselves), but the really big attraction here is the enormous spa.
Pass up on the gallons of Chianti made right on the hotel's doorstep and sign up for one of the detox, weight-loss or anti-ageing programmes devised by Professor Giorgio Calabrese (a diet legend in Italy). These serious three- or seven-day plans all include time in the Aquae Monasterii, a special saltwater pool, to float away worries and wrinkles.
Address: Castel Monastero, Castelnuovo Berardenga, Province of Siena, Italy
Hotel Castello di Reschio
Sculptures by Nic Fiddian Green (famed for his gigantic horses' heads) already dot the grounds and an exhibition of his new works in bronze opened here in July. Proprietor Count Benedikt Bolza clearly has a keen eye. He himself designs bespoke furniture for the hotel, and sells everything from the coffee tables and window seats to the canopied beds and standing lamps, all made on-site by a team of blacksmiths and carpenters.
This is a 1,200-hectare turbo-charged working estate in Lisciano Niccone: smart, creative and exciting. It's also incredibly beautiful. Fifty 500-year-old farmhouses are scattered around the undulating hills of northern Umbria. More than half have been renovated; six are for rent, including Palazzo – a perfect five-bedroom party house built from scratch on the footprint of an old property – and the more traditional Villa San Paulo, a 17th-century building with a chapel that has been converted into a formal dining room.
All are a fantastically refined mix of old-world style with a modern twist: reclaimed terracotta tiles, travertine marble and green oak are combined with steel and glass extensions, industrial loft-style windows, and whizzy kitchens with touches of zinc and concrete. Infinity pools, wine cellars and outdoor pizza ovens are also a given.
The landscaped gardens with rosemary, lavender, olive and pomegranate trees are interspersed with mosaic pathways and fountains. There are cookery lessons from chef Rosario Russo in the restaurant's kitchen, clay-pigeon shoots and fallow-deer stalking - look out for the wild porcupine. And there are also plans to convert the uninhabited 10th-century castle into a small hotel.
Address: Reschio, Lisciano Niccone, Province of Perugia, Italy
Torre di Moravola
The drive here is not for wimps. Twisting up into the wooded heights of the Umbrian hills, the road narrows into a precipitous gravel track shaded by a tunnel of trees, the valley falling steeply away just inches from the car. The reward at the end of this wheel-gripping approach is a 10th-century watchtower that has been thoughtfully and innovatively refurbished by architect Christopher Chong and his wife, designer Seonaid Mackenzie.
Italian interiors can be fusty and dusty, or outrageously bling. Here things have a crisper, more contemporary spin. Chong has seamlessly united the tower's warm stone walls with concrete, glass and steel, which highlights rather than clashes with the structure's ancient bones. Seven suites are minimal and dreamy with cool-grey tiled floors, travertine and marmorino plaster walls matched by sunken tubs, monochrome rugs and, in the Main Tower Suite, a modular sofa under the spectacularly high ceiling.
There's a glass cantilevered Juliet balcony, wide sun-trap terraces and a flickering fire pit, each blade-sharp line softened by climbing roses and lavender. The overall effect is surprisingly calming rather than austere, a rest for the senses, especially if you've spent all day lying by the inky-dark pool, absorbing the panorama of the Carpini Valley, the fields and olive groves and thick oak forests where wolves still live.
Address: Torre di Moravola, Montone, Province of Perugia, Italy
Stefano ScatàBorgo San Felice
When is a hotel not – just – a hotel? When it’s a village. At harvest time, grapes are still offloaded in the main piazza. A cute 19th century chapel hosts regular art shows. And the kitchen gardens just below what was once a rural hamlet – gardens that supply the hotel’s Michelin-starred Poggio Rosso restaurant and more informal Osteria del Grigio – are still abuzz with life thanks to a horticultural project that pairs young local people with cognitive disabilities and retired agricultural workers.
When it opened in 1990, Borgo San Felice was a pioneering Italian ‘albergo diffuso’ (the term refers to a hotel spread out across a pre-existing community, often a depopulated village). It’s kept an edge today thanks to a major three-year renovation, wrapped in 2021, which added 11 guest rooms and suites and brought studio ArchFlorence in to give the whole place a country-chic makeover. The persuasive result feels like it’s the house of that art-collecting, Polo-playing Tuscan uncle you never knew you had. Lee Marshall
Address: Località San Felice, 53019 Castelnuovo Berardenga SI, Italy