The 29 best restaurants in Mayfair
Better-known for its members' clubs and high-end shops, restaurants in Mayfair put the spotlight on classic white-tablecloth spots and sceney neighbourhood stalwarts. These are our pick of the top tables to book while in the splashy area – from recent openings that focus on sustainability (Chantelle Nicholson's beautiful Apricity) and lesser-championed cuisine (Sarap, a Filipino hit) to Michelin Star spots and glitzy date-night hangouts such as Hide, Sexy Fish, Park Chinois and more. All have been tried and tested by members of our team, and appear here in no particular order.
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Rebecca DicksonFonda
It might seem hard to believe now, in a city rife with Mexico City-inspired taco joints, but before Santiago Lastra opened Kol in 2020, finding half-decent Mexican food in London was tricksy. Then came Lastra, a young gun chef from Cuernavaca who cut his teeth at the likes of Mugaritz and, before he was 28 years old, was hand-picked by René Redzepi to lead his Noma Mexico pop-up. Kol, Lastra's first London restaurant, was up against it despite his impressive CV – it opened its doors in the middle of the pandemic, for one. Four years later, Mexican food is no longer overlooked in the capital. But Kol still takes the crown for this cuisine, so word of a new opening from Lastra and his team caused a buzz among London foodies that we haven't seen in a while. Fonda takes many cues from Kol, although it's certainly the more casual younger sibling. Most ingredients are British, and traditional recipes have been tweaked to create Mexican dishes using produce found on our isles – think guacamole-style dips made with pistachio, for example. The menu is a la carte and was largely created for sharing, and our server encourages us to keep dishes from the comal, a flat griddle dish, “close to our chest”, which suits me once I've taken a bite of my melty costra, a wheat tortilla with aged rib-eye and grilled cheese. Mains are build-your-own, served with fresh corn tortillas tucked into a little fabric envelope to keep warm – we order the mole, which was rich, soft and comforting. The space is as relaxed as the menu; picnic-style tables are inset with coloured tiles, an eye-catching (and memorable) pink sloth hangs above the stairs, and the terracotta dining room is dominated by the enormous bar. That bar is where staff whip up cocktails that lean heavily on agave, mezcal and tequila, spotlighting a dedicated Paloma menu (we liked the sparkly Champagne Paloma) and, our favourite, the Fonda margarita, made with rhubarb liqueur. Sarah James
Address: Fonda, 12 Heddon Street, London, W1B 4BZ
Price: fondalondon.com
Koyn Thai
Samyukta Nair is on a roll. The restaurateur behind Socca, Mimi Mei Fair, and KOYN has opened a new Thai restaurant on Grosvenor Street, adding to her list of eateries that keep Mayfair diners well-fed. KOYN Thai – launched in collaboration with chef Rose Chalalai Singh of Rose’s Kitchen – is tucked into the terracotta-tiled basement of sister restaurant KOYN Japanese and looks set to be a firm crowd-pleaser. Bangkok-born Singh has eschewed the tasting menu trend sweeping her home city in favour of rootsy offerings inspired by her grandma’s cooking and Singh’s adopted hometown, Paris. The starter menu delivers one winner after another, from the Chiang Mai platter’s fiery lemongrass sausage to the hot and sour Tom Yum Khon Nam broth filled with chicken and mushrooms. The roti and escargot in green chilli and Thai basil is an intriguing, tri-continental fusion, but most outstanding was the crispy squid in all its sweet and tender gorgeousness. The pomelo salad's uncomplex sugariness slightly killed the vibe, but mains such as the crispy sea bass regained momentum, its accompanying ‘special sauce’ living up to its coy name. Another standout was the yellow crab curry and cha poo leaves, spooned onto sticky white rice. Our evening culminated in mercifully light desserts, including mango sticky rice (a creamier version of its quintessential self) and an almost drinkable passionfruit panna cotta. In short: we love this place, and you will too. Noo Saro-Wiwa
Address: 38 Grosvenor Street, London, W1K 4AQ
Website: koynrestaurants.com
GEORGE APOSTOLIDISAkira Back
Akira Back’s been biding his time. The celebrated chef has been putting his Korean heritage, Colorado upbringing and experience in the world’s best Japanese restaurants into practice for some time now; restaurants include those in Paris’ Prince de Galles Hotel and one in Beverly Hills’ Beverly Center. So where better to launch his latest concept than London’s Mandarin Oriental Mayfair, officially London’s glitziest new hotel? The 148-cover restaurant is a sight to behold. Tokyo-based studio Curiosity led the design efforts, creating a sleek dining space flooded with natural light through the atrium. The emerald-green Ming marble spiral staircase is a strong contender for the capital’s most dramatic entrance. Fresh sushi and sashimi bites fly out of the open kitchen, where stealthy specialists slice through fish with surgical precision. The miso black cod dissolves in the mouth like a foam, while a stand-out was the gochujang rock shrimp – sweet and spicy with a homely, familial feel. While our visit was a lip-smacking one on the whole, a few dishes failed to hit the mark. These included the eringi pizza – a tortilla-style base topped with sliced mushrooms and umami aioli, and a texturally confusing seaweed salad. However, audible hums and lip-licking nods of approval at other tables made it clear not everyone shared this sentiment, so perhaps a clash of preferences. A spread of technicolour desserts was the perfect way to end the night, including a souffle-like pot of warming sponge with a banana kick, and a tart raspberry slice that wouldn’t look out of place in the Tate. Connor Sturges
Address: Akira Back London, 22 Hanover Square, London W1S 1JP
Website: koynrestaurants.com
Ambassadors Clubhouse
It’s a drizzly September evening, and temperatures have taken a considerable nosedive. However, rather than mourn balmy evenings of al-fresco dining, we’re headed to JKS Restaurants’ latest jewellery box of an establishment tucked just off Piccadilly on Heddon Street. It’s an exciting new launch that is sure to rival its sister, Gymkhana, which has become the A-list go-to for Indian banqueting. We’re guided to our table downstairs, admiring interiors inspired by co-founders Jyotin, Karam and Sunaina Sethi’s maternal Grandfather’s summer house in Dalhousie (formerly part of Punjab). It’s dimly lit and subsequently moody, with meticulously placed light fixtures spotlighting golden fixtures. We sip tandoori Margaritas, welcome hugs-in-a-glass, and slather crispy shards of papad in fiery chutneys. We soon realise that everything has a kick, but it’s pleasant rather than overwhelming. The lightest spice is in the dunghar paneer tikka, which is enveloped in an uber-indulgent, nutty kaju masala sauce – the pools of vivid orange oil are best soaked up with a classic butter naan. From the tandoor, we devour BBQ butter chicken chops, tender meat falling off the bone, and give each other vigorous nods of approval before pre-curry stomach rubs. We’re encouraged to opt for four courses during our Punjabi feast, but portions are surprisingly generous. We pile loha karahi chicken curry on mountains of rice and strips of leftover naan bread, adjusting our belts for more room as we mop up the richly spiced tomato sauce. We’re unable to tackle dessert – the chocolate and fig kheer will have to wait another day. Connor Sturges
Address: Ambassadors Clubhouse, 25 Heddon Street, London W1B 4BH
Website: ambassadorsclubhouse.com
Abajo
Michelin-starred HUMO, with its sizzling four-metre wood-fire grill showcasing the chefs working under glimmering lowlights, has made a splash as one of Mayfair’s hottest addresses to book. But downstairs, the team has been working on a new take on the concept, showcasing the best of Colombian cuisine. Abajo – translating literally as ‘below’ – sits beneath a spiral staircase in a subterranean private dining room for 10. Fridges against the walls showcase the day’s catch, cuts of meat and micro herbs, ready and waiting to be transformed under the expert hand of executive chef Miller Prada and head chef Moris Moreno, both hailing from Colombia. There’s no a la carte menu here – instead, we are taken through a tasting experience of five ‘chapters’. Each is centred around a traditional staple ingredient with its own wine pairing, lovingly curated by charismatic sommelier Darcy Swindell. To start, a selection of bites put sweetcorn at the forefront – crisp charred sweetcorn on a buckwheat cracker, creamy lobster claw with trout mousse and a drizzle of silky sweetcorn sauce – followed by odes to bluefin tuna, quail, beef and tomato for dessert, served up pretty as can be with charcoal-blackened pillows of meringue and nectarine jewels. In keeping with HUMO’s ethos, charcoal, ash and smoky flavours shine through, with the vast majority of dishes getting the wood-fired treatment; thick slices of grilled brisket came served with sugar cane honey and deep pink seared quail breast with wild garlic and celeriac is finished with a coating of blackened shallot ashes. In one particular standout, the bones of the quail are used with achiote and ash-aged pecorino to make a cooking liquid for carnaroli rice. Nothing goes to waste here and the presentation reflects this – a spherical carimanola of tuna collar comes served delicately balanced atop the fish’s collarbone. A briefing prefaces each chapter to explain the connection to each ingredient, and Darcy talks through each wine pairing with sheer joyful enthusiasm. To finish, executive chef Miller Prada came for a chat, presenting each of us with a bag of Colombian coffee, a final thoughtful touch on an evening where deep knowledge, passion and flair are on full display throughout. Charley Ward
Address: 12 St. George Street, London W1S 2FB
Website: abajolondon.com.jpg)
The Cocochine
It’s no easy feat to bag a Mayfair address. Locals and visitors alike are familiar with the grand storefronts lining Bond Street, so you can imagine our surprise when we turned onto a quiet mews in the heart of London searching for The Cocochine. We walked by the restaurant not once but twice before noticing the understated entry – a deep red awning framed by the warm glow of Mayfair’s newest address.
Cocochine is the love child of Sri Lankan-born Chef Larry Jayasekara and Hamiltons Gallery owner Tim Jefferies. And love child it is. It is apparent to us that each detail in this four-story townhouse was painstakingly considered; bespoke lighting to minimise shadows, a hand-painted mosaic inspired by Guido Mocafico and leather handrails that match that of the steak knives. The first floor is an intimate space where diners can enjoy an a la carte menu, while the second floor is home to the chef’s counter. Diners can sip on a glass of a Burgundy in the basement-slash-wine cellar, while the top floor is a private event space equipped with a kitchen, dining table and sumptuous couches.
We begin with an array of off-menu canapés before proceeding to the starters. The Orkney Island scallops with creamy pumpkin and a zingy elderflower sauce is the star, as was the melt-in-your-mouth Otoro topped with caviar. Next is the bread course, a soft, steaming bun with the taste and smell of comforting French onion soup. The mains included 40-day-aged beef sirloin with razor clams and, my favourite, the dry-aged wild fillet of turbot. We topped it off with a Cocochine chocolate biscuit with caviar and an apple savarin. Cocochine is still ironing out the kinks when it comes to ambience, but there is no arguing that the food and design are masterfully executed. It’s definitely worth a visit if you’re a diner in search of a classy Mayfair den. Amber Port
Address: The Cocochine, 27 Bruton Place, London W1J 6NQ
Website: thecocochine.com
El Pirata of Mayfair
El Pirata isn’t your average Mayfair restaurant. Diners aren’t here for the photo evidence or crystal chandeliers – ultimately, there’s nothing overly glitzy about the Hispanophile hangout on Down Street. But that’s where the charm lies. Inside, smiling servers swerve each other's paths as they dote on tables, zooming between the kitchen pass and cosy corners where couples on double dates give each other mute nods of approval after sampling each small plate. The sound of guitar strings flutters through the split-level space as we’re seated in the thick of the action, besides eye-catching artwork and a view of our fellow tapas-chompers. We sip on Cava and devour creamy chicken croquettes before dipping sizable prawn fritters in garlic aioli – the only dish that didn’t win us over due to its chunky texture, but nearby tables thought otherwise. The menu features all the classics alongside more experimental dishes, warranting return visits when an initial trip is ruled by the nostalgia of childhood summers along Andalusian shores. Sizable chicken chunks soak up the sweet, smoky juices of sliced chorizo, while oils are mopped up with leftover bread. Meanwhile, the wild mushrooms, seasoned with garlic and breadcrumbs, provide a hearty meat-free punch. Patrón Jose Rodrigues has a winning formula that’s kept Londoners returning for flavoursome familiarity for three decades. If the smiles and food-fuelled chatter in the room are anything to go by, there’s lots of life in this Spanish sanctuary yet. Connor Sturges
Address: El Pirata of Mayfair, 5 - 6 Down Street, London W1J 7AQ
Website: elpirata.co.uk
James McDonaldMuse, Belgravia
Tom Aikens has a fair few tales to tell from an eventful career that’s taken him from stints with Koffmann and Robuchon to being the youngest British chef to win two Michelin stars, aged 26, while at Pied à Terre, followed by private cheffing for Andrew Lloyd Webber, among others, and an eponymous Chelsea restaurant – not without ruffling a few feathers along the way. But for his return to London's fine dining, he digs deep into his archive, bringing recipes, producers, ingredients, and nostalgia to a discreet, upstairs-downstairs residence seating just 26, tucked down a Belgravia mews (hence the play-on-words name). Small plates come bearing whimsical names, such as "Conquering the Beech Tree," a dish that Aikens has evolved over the years and now appears as flame-grilled langoustine tail with pork fat and tiny cubes of singed apple. The name refers to a childhood challenge that he feels sums up his risk-taking culinary approach. It’s a story told in the pop-up beech tree that arrives with it, as intricately assembled as the food which is tweezered and layered and daubed with all the lip-biting concentration of a game of Operation. Velouté is drizzled, sea herbs scattered, ‘choose-your-weapon’ handmade knives proffered. A pollock-and-pave-potato miniature comes with seaweed three ways and a baby leek tied with a fairy knot of chive; a dish of scallops is a rockpool still life teeming with cauliflower and pickled grapes; a patisserie-like, Robuchon-inspired dessert pairs celeriac and truffle with chocolate for a palate-pausing hit of savoury sweetness. And in an era where decent sourdough ferments everywhere, the ancient-grains bread here is incredible. Muse opened to accusations of pretentiousness, but Aikens, very visible in the kitchen, is conjuring searingly good food in a space that has all the cosseting welcome of a neighbourhood bistro. Top-of-the-tree stuff, in fact. Rick Jordan
Address: Muse by Tom Aikens, 38 Groom Place, London SW1X 7BA
Website: musebytomaikens.co.uk
HUMO
Amid the throng of new restaurants around London, all touting exciting concepts and innovative angles, few can successfully cut through the noise. Mayfair’s latest arrival, however, has done so triumphantly. Bringing a fresh new take on wood-fired cooking, HUMO takes creative cooking seriously. The kitchen operates without gas or electricity; chefs cook on a four-meter-long wooden grill that stretches across the middle of the restaurant. Chef Miller Prada cut his teeth under the watchful eye of Endo Kazutoshi and has efficiently taken the precision and skill from his omakase training and paired it with a distinct understanding of the London foodie crowd’s desire for food served with a side of drama. The menu is divided into four sections, each corresponding to food cooked in different ways: ignite, smoke, flame, and embers. While the cooking process acts as HUMO’s main draw, my favourite aspect of the menu was the personal touches inspired by restaurant team members. The yellowtail dish, for example, features seven-day aged tuna, served with a zingy soy and citrus sauce and Castillo coffee from Miller’s family farm in Columbia. The sea bass is a mellow dish, topped with Mexican vanilla and cracked Malagasy pepper and drizzled with homemade olive oil from Giacomo’s family in Lazio. The wine list also offers a refreshing take, listing bottles by geographical location rather than country – sections include island, coastal and high altitude. There’s a reason this restaurant went viral on Tik Tok: the attention to detail on delicately balanced dishes combined with the relaxed, free-hand style flame cooking methods create a genuinely unique experience bang in the centre of London’s most sophisticated neighbourhood.
Address: 12 St George Street, London W1S 2FB
Website: humolondon.com%2520-sept23-pr-Thomas%2520Alexander.jpg)
Thomas AlexanderThe Mayfair Chippy
Head to Mayfair’s North Audley Street at lunchtime and there’ll be a queue for one restaurant: The Mayfair Chippy. It’s precisely what you’d imagine: a classic British chip shop, done to Mayfair standards. Walls are tiled, floors are checkerboard, and friendly staff are dressed in white aprons. It’s a delightfully lux-kitsch take on the theme. Unlike your typical seaside version, it’s a seriously polished operation: there’s table service and a wine list, and the menu is on par with any fine dining seafood experience. Expect the classics: cod or haddock (battered to perfection), served up in ‘newspaper’ lined fryer baskets on beds of proper chips that come with copper pots of dipping sauces – mushy peas, tartar, curry sauce, and ketchup. There are also platters of oysters, crab, and Market seafood specials (plus clever vegetarian and vegan versions – try the oyster mushrooms with truffle mayo or battered halloumi). The signature here is ‘Afternoon Sea’ – a fun take on English high tea, with seafood served on cake stands, including king prawns, mussels, and lobster (best enjoyed with ice-cold Champagne). The restaurant maintains an environmentally conscious philosophy, sourcing all ingredients responsibly and offering seasonal dishes and specials. This is a must-try for any coastal nomads or yesteryear aficionados needing a hit of good seaside fare. Charlotte Davey
Address: The Mayfair Chippy, 14 North Audley Street, London, W1K 6WE
Website: mayfairchippy.com
Bacchanalia
Before you even enter Berkeley Square’s Bacchanalia, you can visualise the restaurant’s spectacular interiors. In true Richard Caring style (Annabel's, Sexy Fish), the opening was a high-profile launch party that saw Florence Welsh entertain guests including Naomi Campbell and Harris Reed. Rumoured to have cost upwards of £25 million, the interiors are the work of Martin Brudnizki (The Beekman, Soho House Hotels). And the statues gazing over you as you take your seat? Damien Hirst, of course.
All get top marks for committing to a theme. Bathrooms, for example, are an experience in themselves – prepare to hear faint battle cries while spending a penny. Many of the themed aspects work well, such as the gargantuan interpretation of Romans In Their Decadence, complete with selfie-snapping mock-ancient citizens. Service from waiters draped in togas is fun, but certainly not suited to low-key diners. No amount of decadence can make up for terrible food, of course – so hopes were high ahead of our visit. Athinagoras Kostakos, the chef behind Scorpios Mykonos, has devised a menu celebrating the best of Greek and Italian cuisine – these are dishes you know done well rather than intricate plates with Michelin aspirations. Cheese croquettes filled with taleggio, provolone and cheddar are paired with indulgent truffle mayonnaise, although the must-order among the starters is the flawlessly seasoned keftedes – melty meatballs on a smoked yoghurt base.
The tagliolini truffle pasta was one of the most popular dishes on the menu. But with truffle mayo still tingling on the palate we opted for the bucatini bolognese. As authentic as the bolognese ragu was, the density of the pasta meant it sat heavily on the stomach for some time afterwards. We topped crusted baby potatoes with slithers of sea bream – buttery, caper-infused fish and crispy skin – and washed it down with a Sicilian white picked by our attentive sommelier. For pudding, order the soft-serve Greek yoghurt ice cream – the sweet silkiness is interrupted by chunks of syrupy walnut cake. Or the signature tiramisu – mercifully light, mousse-like and dusted in bitter cocoa powder – the perfect finish, albeit lacking a boozier hit. Connor Sturges
Address: Bacchanalia, 1-3 Mount Street, London W1K 3NA
Website: bacchanalia.co.uk
John CareyCOYA Mayfair
As Coya Mayfair in Piccadilly celebrates its 10th anniversary this year, the Peruvian restaurant remains a sensory universe unto itself, known as much for its arresting decor as its cuisine. Following a 2020 makeover, its interiors are as chromatically exuberant as ever, a riot of Inca-inspired wall carvings and Amazon-esque gold-leaf foliage that glints in dim lighting as the DJ pumps out the bass. The menu, never to be outdone by the surroundings, has maintained its high standards, offering elevated Peruvian cuisine with Japanese and Spanish influences. Standouts include the blue prawn ceviche, zhooshed up by the sweet tang of chilli, lemon, and mango; the citrusy Conchas tiradito (scallops, olives, and corn); and the Lubina Chilena, a hunk of seabass under a miso glaze. The crispy spicy potato sides, richly dressed in a Huancaína spicy tomato and cheese sauce, are a perennial crowd-pleaser. Best of all, the mixologists’ Pisco cocktails will ensure that the night begins or ends on a deliciously sour note. Noo Saro-Wiwa
Address: Coya, 118 Piccadilly, London W1J 7NW, United Kingdom
Website: coyarestaurant.com
KOYN
London has seen its fair share of Japanese restaurants but this latest addition from Samyukta Nair and LSL Capital (founders of Michelin-starred Jamavar, MiMi Mei Fair and Bombay Bustle) in Mayfair will undoubtedly be a fast favourite. Housed in the former US embassy in Grosvenor Square, KOYN brings a modern twist to traditional Japanese cuisine with a duality concept inspired by Mount Fuji. The two-story space has an airy sushi bar named MIDORI on the ground floor and an open kitchen robata grill called MAGMA downstairs. The menu, curated and led by ex-Nobu chef Rhys Cattermoul, is compact yet thoughtfully packed with classics and refreshing signatures – nigiris, sushi rolls, robata specials fill the menu. With only one request – the miso black cod – we left it to the chefs to surprise us with the rest. 13 dishes and two very satisfied diners later, it’s the dry-aged sea bass and sweet shrimp with oscietra caviar in yuzu dashi soy that make for a delicate starter. This is best accompanied with the chūtoro (semi-fatty tuna) dressed in sudachi soy, kizami wasabi and tangy yuzu pearls. On the flip side, the robata standouts are the ume-glazed charred scallops, roasted cabbage with koji dressing, and unsurprisingly, the miso black cod is enough reason to want to return. But the spiced red mullet dipped in a yuzu kosho tosazu sauce, along with an applewood smoked Chilean sea bass, shouldn’t be overlooked either. Lastly, the agedashi tofu, usually seen as a side dish, had us raving about it long after our visit. There is an extensive selection of cocktails, sakes and whiskies originating from Japan to choose from but the Akoya mocktail, a blend of Everleaf with shisho, coconut and lychee, delightfully helps cut through the umami richness. Zahra Surya Darma
Address: Koyn, 38 Grosvenor St, London W1K 4QA
Website: koynrestaurants.com
Simon-BrownMount St. Restaurant
It’s been a long time coming on Mount Street. In September 2022, the Mayfair street lined with members’ clubs and neon Lamborghinis welcomed the first opening in The Audley – a ground-floor pub deemed by our editors as one of the prettiest in London. A couple of weeks later, the 200-year-old building revealed the four upper floors: Mount St. Restaurant and four private dining spaces, including a secret nook with a card table and bar called The Games Room. The ambitious project comes courtesy of Manuela and Iwan Wirth (of hospitality company Artfarm, also responsible for beloved Scotland hotel The Fife Arms), under the direction of Paris-based design and architecture studio Laplace.
Right from the get-go, it’s clear this most dazzling of restaurants in Mayfair is a love letter to contemporary art – the staircase entrance could double as an art gallery. Inside walls are adorned with sumptuous works by serious names – Freud’s A Plate of Prawns (1958) and Andy Warhol's Lobster (1982) are museum-worthy and yet perfectly fitting. There’s art all around, and in every detail too, from the salt and pepper shakers right down to the floor —a mesmerising mosaic by American artist Rashid Johnson, titled Broken Floor. There’s so much to feast your eyes on within the dark and moody space, you could easily sit at one of the round brick-red leather-topped tables and take it all in. But while you’re there, you may as well tuck in. The fare here is traditional British with a nudge and a wink. The lobster pie comes with a googly-eyed crustacean peering out, the caviar is cheekily served with sour cream and onion Pringles, while the mid-18th-century mock-turtle soup has been modernised in the form of a croquette. King Henry VIII-types will relish in the Highland venison, cooked to perfection, but the Dover sole is the real star of the show. Order it with a side of triple-cooked chips for the poshest fish and chips in town. Lauren Burvill
Address: Second Floor 41-43 Mount Street, London W1K 2RX England
Website: mountstrestaurant.com.jpg)
Dovetale
Tom Sellers is on a roll. It’s only a few months since the Nottingham-born chef, who found fame and Michelin stars at Bermondsey’s Restaurant Story, opened Story Cellar – a bistro-style offshoot specialising in rotisserie chicken. Now, he’s overseeing the open kitchen at Dovetale, in a corner of the 1Hotel Mayfair – the summer’s most hyped London opening, with its biophilic living walls, oak tree reception and doormen in flat caps. Dovetale occupies a large space, all tactile Scandi-luxe neutrals and flickering fires spilling out onto a terrace enfolded by greenery. It feels about the right setting for Sellers at his most grown-up yet, with a provenance-driven European menu that elevates the classics rather than overly tinkering; and a lengthy wine list that skews organic and natural but has room for iconic French vintages, overseen by the charming, quick-talking Connecticuter Tara Ozols, who won Michelin’s prestigious Sommelier Award earlier this year. There’s a summery freshness to the fragrant Isle of Wight tomato tart and a sashimi-style Cornish wild seabass, its quivering loveliness offset by clean fennel, almonds and preserved mandarin slices. More decadent is a wagyu carpaccio inspired by the mustard-y Harry’s Bar version, a few streets north, which the lovely waiter, Carmen, recommends we wrap around perfectly rectangular beef fat chips. Every technique feels on-point: in the rich cylindrical Dover sole in the Veronique style invented by Auguste Escoffier; in a Ratatouille Byaldi – the one from the Pixar film, probably learned under Thomas Keller – that’s a sublime swirl of delicately sliced ingredients. So goes the grain-fed Black Angus beef rib, its textural perfection offset by a trace of the countryside on the nose. Lest it all get a bit serious (the £660 N25 Oscietra caviar or the £10,500 2015 Domaine Coche-Dury seem aimed at a certain clientele), a retro trolley by the bar serves Knickerbocker Glories alongside decadent classics like a Grand Marnier soufflé. We opt for a Boozy Bocker – a Hail Mary order that turns out to be a sophisticated, surprisingly clean ensemble of coconut and rum ice cream, accompanied by roasted pineapple, coconut shavings, and the fluffiest whipped cream. Of course it is. When it comes to food, Dovetale really isn’t messing around. Toby Skinner
Address: Dovetale, 1 Dover Yard, London W1J 8NE
Website: 1hotels.com
Tendril
Following his successful stint at Sun & 13 Cantons in Soho last year, chef Rishim Sachdeva is temporarily back in central London to serve a mostly vegan menu before moving his pop-up, Tendril, to a more permanent home. Focused on fresh, seasonal produce and a plant-based philosophy, it's no wonder it garnered such a cult following among both vegan and non-vegan diners. The pop-up is situated between the affluent Mayfair neighbourhood and the bustling Soho scene, although you’ll have to keep your eyes peeled, as it can be easily missed due to its minimalist exterior design, comprising a simple chalkboard sign on the pavement and the menu pegged by the entrance. The space is light and airy with accents of dark furnishings, creating a serene and intimate atmosphere amid the busy streets surrounding it. The menu is small but delivers a selection of fan favourites and new creations, alongside a mostly vegan wine list. We went for the seven-course tasting menu, reasonably priced at £49 per person, but you can also order dishes à la carte. A noteworthy starter was the braised Jerusalem artichoke, prepared in two ways. The heart is lightly seasoned with oil, salt and chives, allowing the natural flavours of the vegetable to take centre stage, which is then nicely juxtaposed by the sharp, smoky taste of the roasted shell. While the chipotle mushrooms paired with crispy potatoes and salsa verde left us craving for a second helping, the standout dish goes to the smoked beetroot ‘nduja placed on a crunchy blue corn tostada. The combination of spices with a hint of sweetness offered a flurry of textures and flavours that were unexpected but welcomed. The “Chinatown” purple potatoes dressed in a sticky soy sauce and sesame crackers are a must-try too. The chocolate tart is deeply rich and not overly sweet, making for the perfect pudding to close out the evening – but we hear the tiramisu is one not to miss either. Zahra Surya Darma
Address: Tendril, 5 Princes St, London W1B 2LQ
Website: tendrilkitchen.co.uk
BiBi
BiBi has been on our radar for a while now, after chef Chet Sharma bought the site years ago, blissfully unaware of the complications a global pandemic, multiple lockdowns and a fuel shortage would bring. However, the restaurant finally opened its doors in September 2021 and is well worth the wait. BiBi effectively nails the brief: a restaurant that slots naturally into its surroundings, yet abounds with personality and a contemporary feel. The menu is a unique blend of contemporary skills and Indian authenticity, with traditional comfort food dishes plucked straight from visceral childhood memories, and the restaurant prides itself on working directly with farmers. Turn over the menu to explore a map of South Asia, with pins marking the farms that each ingredient has been sourced from – here, you’ll find pomegranate from Kandahar in Afghanistan, cardamom from Sikkim, wild black mustard seeds from Odisha and chocolate from Puducherry. There’s a solid wine list featuring whites, reds, and sparkling options, as well as a selection of teas (served both hot and cold) to complement the dishes. Round off the evening with a reverse Espresso Martini – vodka distilled with coffee beans, coconut water and coconut milk– with a distinctive foam made by hand-whisking dried espresso with sugar.Merging high-end food, glamorous interiors and a hard-to-impress postcode. Olivia Morelli
Address: BiBi, 42 N Audley Street, London W1K 6ZP
Website: bibirestaurants.com
Mister Nice
We’ve barely made it through the door – past the impossibly clean windows, the gold Mister Nice lettering glinting in the June evening sunshine – when I spot my first Chanel handbag, draped over the chair of a diner as glossy as the setting. This place is polished with a capital P – all black lacquered chairs, pristine plump sofas and wafts of Santal filling the air. As we sip our Cucumber Martinis, there’s a real buzz as couples lean in to chat across the crisp white tablecloths in the candlelight.
The menu focuses on contemporary French cuisine with an international twist. For starters, silky burrata comes topped with crunchy pistachio, while my companion’s smoked salmon – served with the lightest horseradish cream – is some of the freshest we’ve tasted. Expect dishes such as perfectly cooked and seasoned poussin grillé and, whatever you do, add a bowl of pommes allumettes each – you won’t regret it. Sarah Allard
Address: Mister Nice, 14-16 Davies Street, London W1K 3DR
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ZAC and ZACThe Colony Grill
For a true Mayfair experience, you'd be hard-pushed to find somewhere more classic than The Colony Grill. Walking through the frontage of The Beaumont hotel, staff greet you like an old friend and present you with the first (and certainly not last) hard choice of the evening, to take an aperitif in the iconic Le Magritte Bar or at your table. There is no wrong choice of course, but with alluring revamped decor, from maximalist art to deep-red leather banquettes, going straight into The Colony Grill is the easy choice. Start with one of our many new dishes, including a playful take on Waldorf salad, complete with Raw Orkney scallop and a refreshing green apple vinaigrette. Mains here range from grand classics, such as their dry-aged steaks to the lighter, freshest South Coast Dover sole served how you wish. Don't forget to save room for their theatrical puddings, from banana foster to the build-your-own sundae.
Address: The Colony Grill, 8 Balderton Street, Mayfair, W1K 6TF
Website: colonygrillroom.com.jpg)
Ben CarpenterApricity
The rough-luxe looks here are courtesy of a painstakingly low-carbon refit that has resulted in a pinkish patina'd plaster and upcycled masonry, enhanced with tumbling greenery and potted plants. Chairs are fashioned from decommissioned Coke bottles, and the most pleasing aesthetic reminder that you’re somewhere fully eco comes in the beautiful uniforms by Gung Ho. Even these stylish prints are textiles conjured from reincarnated PET bottles. New Zealand-born Chantelle won hearts as the chef-proprietor of Tredwells in Covent Garden, and acclaim as an exemplar of the Green Michelin Star. The menu showcases small-scale producers – charred umami miso cabbage, carnivore-pleasing mushrooms. Wine pairings are regenerative and low-intervention, and articulated wonderfully by the knowledgeable team. The prices may not seem as low-key as the restaurant's appearance, but this is an establishment where everyone in the supply chain has been paid properly, and nothing tastes better than that. Juliet Kinsman
Address: Apricity, 68 Duke Street, Mayfair W1K 6JU
Website: apricityrestaurant.com
John CareyMurano
Angela Hartnett's Murano has been serving an elegant crowd since 2008, when the now household-name chef opened its doors on Queen Street and began cooking Northern Italian dishes. A few months after opening, the restaurant won a Michelin star, which it has retained ever since, and four AA rosettes, which it has held onto for the past 15 years. But this summer, Angela and the team shut up shop for a top-to-toe makeover to celebrate the milestone birthday, and reopened with a new head chef and a fresh-feel menu. George Ormond is now looking after the pass. His menu – worked on closely, of course, with Angela herself – is considered and stripped back. Just three starters, three pasta dishes, three fish options and three meat options are listed on the à la carte menu each day. Rather cleverly, you can choose between three and six courses from anywhere on the menu – the team adjusts the portion size to reflect the number of plates being served. The smoked ricotta tartlet combines wonderfully light pastry with creamy ricotta and tart pickled walnuts. The pasta dishes stand out, even on a menu filled with hits, so don't skip over these – we particularly liked the wonderfully simple chicken tortellini in brodo. If you're in the market for meat, the saddleback pork with pickled plum is soft and moreish. Don't sleep on the pudding menu, either: the caramelised Amalfi lemon tart is zingy and fresh and won't put you to sleep. There is also a vegan menu, as well as a reasonably priced lunch menu (three courses for £55). This is a classic restaurant that's been given a new lease of life, helmed by a team that's passionate about looking forward as well as celebrating the past. Sarah James
Address: Murano, 20 Queen Street, Mayfair, London W1J 5PP
Website: muranolondon.com
Chris TerrySabor
Wander just a little from Regent Street, down foodie Heddon Street, and find Sabor. Opened by ex-Barrafina chef Nieves Barragán and partner José Etura in 2018, this Spanish restaurant became an instant hit. An open kitchen features a long, communal counter on the ground floor, where blue and white tiles line the walls and a buzzy crowd is settling in for after-work drinks by 6pm. The downstairs is made up of small plates from all over Spain – perfect for snacking at the counter. Chunks of warm bread come with olive oil for dunking, or order Pan Tomate for crunchy bread laden with tomatoes. Upstairs, El Asador is a more formal dining room for Galician-style dishes. And don’t expect the now-standard Negroni or Aperol Spritz on the menu here – it’s traditional Spanish drinks all the way. Sarah James
Address: Sabor, 35 Heddon Street, London W1B 4BR
Website: saborrestaurants.co.uk
Park Chinois
In the ongoing battle for the unofficial title of the most decadent restaurant in Mayfair, Park Chinois is up there. It opened in 2015 on Berkeley Street, surrounded by swanky neighbours (Nobu, Hakkasan Mayfair, Benares, Sexy Fish), and became an instant hit with Mayfair’s glittery set. The bar is the first port of call, lined with red-velvet stools and manned by handsome mixologists in tuxedos. In the dimly lit dining room, Salon de Chine, the walls are covered in thick swathes of red and gold silk, and, in the evening, a jazz band sets up right in the middle of the tables. Downstairs, the members’ club atmosphere is taken a step further in Club Chinois. Dim Sum is the obvious place to start on the enormous, Chinese-inspired menu – the dim-sum platter features impeccably made, paper-thin dumplings filled with scallops, truffles, or prawns. The mains read like a shopping list of expensive ingredients: Wagyu rib-eye, roast duck topped with Champagne and orange sauce. Bookend the evening with cocktails. We recommend ordering the earthy and seriously boozy Umami Old Fashioned, a mix of truffle-infused bourbon, mushroom liqueur, vermouth, nigella, black sesame and house-made bitters. This is not the spot for a casual Tuesday supper. But it’s a seriously fun, very bougie, money’s-no-object night out. Sarah James
Address: Park Chinois, 17 Berkeley Street, Mayfair, London W1J 8EA
Website: parkchinois.com
Brasserie of Light
While most department stores are reeling from the troubled state of the high street, Selfridges has found a way to flaunt its confidence, with a whopping £300 million investment in the store. And it’s obvious that a hefty sum of that cash has gone into Richard Caring’s (The Ivy, Sexy Fish, Scott’s) Brasserie of Light – the store’s restaurant with its own dedicated entrance on Duke Street, which allows it to stay open long after the shoppers leave. It’s got all the components we’ve come to expect from Caring’s stable: eye-popping, dazzling interiors from design hotshot Martin Brudnizki, shiny Art Deco flourishes, a sweeping brass bar and round-the-clock comfort food. And staying true to its name, the space is flooded with light. Start with plump scallops served on top of a thick, gazpacho-like red-pepper-and-fennel sauce, or order steak tartare served with huge parmesan crisps for mopping up your plate. For mains, lobster spaghetti comes with generous chunks stirred into a piquant tomato sauce, and there’s an excellent (and very messy) shrimp-and-avocado burger. A buzzy bar with crowd-pleasing food in a smash-hit location. Teddy Wolstenholme
Address: Brasserie of Light, Selfridges, Duke Street Entrance, 400 Oxford St, London W1A 1AB
Website: brasserie-of-light.co.uk
Kitty Fisher's
This is a romantic Shepherd Market stalwart – named for an 18th-century courtesan known for her extravagance. The dishes here tap into that – the chef’s crispy potatoes, which are creating the hype these days (thinly sliced, cooked in butter and herbs, pressed overnight, then cut and fried). It turns out that a lot of the other dishes are pretty wonderful too – starting with the sharing bites: a mouthful of oozing Welsh Rarebit is topped with pickled onions (take our advice, and if there’s two of you, double up); ham and pig jowl croquettes are packed with flavour and complimented by picallili and the bread with soft whipped whey butter is a simple crowd pleaser too It would be remiss not to order the beef, but other main highlights include cod with fennel and artichoke, and Iberico presa pork with leek and apple. Enjoy a selection from the carefully curated wine list, which features some entirely affordable options, including a house Languedoc for just £4.50, as well as a short reserve list that showcases unusual wines with limited supply, albeit at a slightly higher price point. This mini Mayfair joint is still top dollar, and these days you might even be able to book a table. Plus, some of the most genuinely friendly service in the business. Tabitha Joyce
Address: Kitty Fisher’s, 10 Shepherd Market, Mayfair, London W1J 7QF
Website: kittyfishers.com
Isabel
No favela-chic exposed brickwork or steely industrial ducting here - this is a coiffed, gold-and-blue TAG Heuer of an all-day restaurant, part Robert Palmer video, part Luc Besson fantasy. All in all, one of the most beautiful restaurants in London. The bar is made of Macassar ebony, there's Dublin-green brocade on the walls, and the loos are clad in leafy, chinoiserie drifts of de Gournay wallpaper. A small fleet of catwalk hostesses in sci-fi tulip dresses by Johanna Ortiz are poised to escort you slowly to your seat. Just make sure that seat is at the four-sided bar, all the better for people-watching, set under the soft glow of 300 brass lamps designed to flatter skin tones. Smart, small-plate grazing food all the way, mixing market-fresh vegetables and superfoods with the occasional gaucho influence (a pot of lightly spiced corn, for example) all artfully arranged at the bar or table to avoid sending your glass of Montrachet flying. Much of it is lactose, sugar and gluten-free – after a pizzette or two (tingling 'nduja, prawn and chilli), a plate of pocket-square-thin jamon iberico and just-right quail eggs, you can munch on an array of salads (watercress, courgette, pea, mint and lemon) and ceviches – though carnivores should make sure to order the excellent beef short-rib ravioli with truffle. Pure theatre, with attentive Four Seasons-style service – this is Mayfair people-watching at its best and an all-day menu. An Annabel's for the clean-eating generation? Rick Jordan
Address: Isabel, 26 Albemarle Street, Mayfair, London W1S 4HY
Website: isabelw1.london
Corrigan's
Dublin-born Richard Corrigan took London by the balls in the mid-1990s, winning a star at Stephen Bull's Fulham Road before opening the big-ticket Soho restaurant Lindsay House and shucking up Bentley's Oyster Bar & Grill, a survivor from the Edwardian era. He's a chef known for his deft, big-hearted takes on country cooking, using a poacher's sack of game and tipping his toque towards France. The table's set with a simple crusty loaf, quartered on an iron skillet, and a bowl of leaves, beetroot and radish from Corrigan's Virginia Park Lodge estate, but what follows is far more elaborate. The menu remains strong in game and British seafood, featuring dishes such as roast grouse, red mullet, and sea trout with razor clams. A starter of Orkney scallops sits in a rock-pool brine of vanilla and cocoa, with coral-like sprigs of cauliflower. Tender globs of lobster are decorated with whirls of turnip and fishnet crisps of dulse. A trio of succulent suckling pig is artfully arranged with squash and nettles. Puddings include a rich bar of chocolate marquise, and a delicate cherry cake and tarragon ice cream cloaked in hibiscus jelly. A place to linger in and cast the Apple Watch aside, this has all the ease and expansiveness of a good raconteur. Rick Jordan
Address: Corrigan's, 28 Upper Grosvenor Street, Mayfair, London W1K 7EH
Website: corrigansmayfair.co.uk
HIDE
It’s been more than four years since Ollie Dabbous’s latest restaurant Hide opened its doors. Heavy, thick, knowingly blank doors that take serious nerve to push open. They’re the first signal that this is an exclusive spot – in all the right ways, with serene hostesses instantly on hand to whisk you to your table. Most people are here to eat – Dabbous led the restaurant to win a Michelin star just a few months after opening in 2018 – on the oak ground floor and in the fancier tasting-and-set-menu-only room upstairs, above. Downstairs, Dabbous’s long-term business partner Oskar Kinberg, who mixes top-shelf drinks to match the much-lauded food, is looking after the cocktail bar. A smart restaurant with an even smarter menu, serving some of the city’s best dishes. Sarah James
Address: Hide, 85 Piccadilly, London W1J 7NB
Website: hide.co.uk
JOHN BLACKWELLOrmer
After years under the direction of Kerth Gumbs, Great British Menu 2020 finalist, Ormer is now in the hands of Sofian Msetfi, whose CV includes stints at Tom Kerridge’s Hand and Flowers in Marlow. The 1930s-inspired restaurant sits pretty inside Flemings Hotel, and, this being Mayfair, exclusively serves tasting menus. Diners can choose between the five- or seven-course option, where dishes might include a BBQ rack of veal, flaky butter-poached cod, or show-stealing native lobster.
Address: Ormer, Flemings Mayfair, 7-12 Half Moon Street, London W1J 7BH
Website: flemings-mayfair.co.uk