Review: Hotel Byblos, St Tropez

Why book

For a taste of old-world glamour at one of the most famous hotels in St Tropez.

Set the scene

Pulling up to the burnt orange exterior of Hotel Byblos, with its mythological logo and plethora of tropical plantlife, I’m transported to another world – one that I didn’t expect to see in St Tropez, and one that feels intriguing from the get-go. From reception, I peer down to the curved turquoise pool (shaped to mimic that of Byblos city), and the plush dusky red sun loungers that surround it. Women in wide-brimmed hats sip rose, and men dressed head to toe in linen take important-sounding calls in the midday sun. On the car ride to the hotel’s own beach club, we pass verdant French countryside before pulling up to the breezy open-air restaurant where we’re served impressive cuts of steak and whole, flame-grilled fish with sharing bowls of frites and salad. Quick dip in the sea later, and I’ve quickly learned why people love St Tropez.

The backstory

The backstory of Hotel Byblos is a good one. For starters, it’s been around since the ‘60s, and its reputation as one of the original and most famous properties in St Tropez is as strong as ever. Brigitte Bardot was a guest at the launch party, and Mick Jagger and Bianca Perez spent their honeymoon in one of its suites. Today, it’s still frequented by the stars. Ceramics that formed part of the original decor have been repurposed and placed artistically on the walls around the property, and there’s a striking yellow tiled staircase in the main building that hints at a bygone era. With every round of renovations, I’m told, the goal is to maintain the soul of the hotel. If you’re looking for gloss, glam and flawless new finishing touches, this is not it, but for richness of history and a truly authentic experience, you’ve come to the right place.

The rooms

Every room at Hotel Byblos is different – a feature that adds to its charisma and intrigue. For many returning guests, securing the same spot year after year is a must, and I’m told people often book a stay for the following season upon departure. Designer Laura Gonzalez brings Parisian flair to the coast in four suites, and there’s a famous Missoni suite bedecked in the fashion brand’s signature outlandish zigzag furnishings.

Mine was somewhat more traditional, and the mix of original architecture and modern touches felt like an exact reflection of the overall property. The bed was wide, low to the ground, and facing a private terrace – the perfect place for a morning coffee, which I made using the ily machine as opposed to the standard Nespresso (no shade on Nespresso, but the Italian in our group was gleefully happy with this in-room accessory). Despite only sleeping two, there were four fluffy white dressing gowns hanging on the backs of various doors, which I can only assume is to ensure guests have one each for upstairs, and one each for downstairs. Yes, this ‘room’ spanned two levels, connected by a winding stone staircase. In the bathrooms, Sisley products nod to the spa (and make me want to rethink my everyday haircare routine – a first for a hotel stay), and spare toilet rolls were encased in their very own quilted covers embroidered with the Byblos logo.

The food and drink

Tables at Il Giardino spill out from the restaurant and onto the courtyard, hugging the pool and celebrating the main hub of the hotel. It’s here that breakfast, lunch and dinner are served on crisp white cloths, but the menu in the day is that of the pool bar, B Lounge. By night, executive Chef Nicola Canuti and his team conjure up beautiful flavours using herbs and plants grown in the kitchen garden, which he proudly tours interested guests around on request. At breakfast, expect a buffet brimming with French patisserie, cold cuts and healthy homemade granola, build-your-own juices and eggs made to order from the a la carte menu. At lunch, garden salad bowls, pizzas and sharer plates of hummus, and in the evening, fish and pasta dishes best shared across the table.

Start the night with drinks on the roof terrace, watching the sky illuminate in a blaze of orange hues that match the margarita you’ve ordered, and head downstairs after dark to dine with the glamorous St Tropez crowd. The piece de resistance? Frozen limoncello, freepoured at the end of the meal by the ever-polished wait staff who finish each glass with a shaving of zest and a ‘Voila!’

The service

One thing’s for sure, there are a lot of staff at Hotel Byblos. Dressed sharply in shirts, waistcoats and beige suits, they certainly look the part. As is the way in France, things don’t happen at speed, especially when it comes to the cocktails, but everything arrives with a smile and I’m reminded to soak it all in and sink into the French Riviera’s laidback way of life.

Wellness

Treatments at the Sisley spa take a holistic approach. Guests have the opportunity to book in to sound healing and breathwork sessions if they time their stay right. I’d highly recommend doing so – our therapist led us through a relaxing and restorative hour in the open-air terrace beside the spa, and set the tone for a truly restful night’s sleep. Back inside, the sauna, steam room and ‘experience shower’ make winding down after a session in one of the two fitness rooms (kitted out with TechnoGym equipment) a luxurious affair.

For families

There are a couple of (very well behaved) babies here during my stay, but no kids dive-bombing the pool, and the stairs around this maze of a property aren’t particularly buggy friendly. Families are absolutely welcome, but Hotel Byblos, its buzzy indoor/outdoor bar and the social scene that it oozes are primarily aimed at adults wanting to see and be seen. Best to leave the little ones at home.

Sustainability

Not huge amounts to note…

Accessibility

There are two rooms specifically designed for wheelchair users, and ramps and lifts lead to all communal areas of the hotel, but the nature of the building is such that winding stone staircases are par for the course, so anyone with physical disabilities might struggle with the architecture.

Anything left to mention

The club. In peak season, the queue to get into Les Caves du Roy trail past Zuma and down the cobbled streets of St Tropez. Doors open at 11pm, but it’s not until around 2 that the party is really pumping. If you’re staying at the hotel, a night here is a right of passage – spend sunset hours sipping mezcal margs at the rooftop bar and head down to join the party before traipsing the short walk back to bed, heels in hand, in the small hours of the morning. If you’re concerned about the noise, don’t be. My room was close to the club and I slept soundly and undisturbed every night.