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Most of my childhood memories play out in the ocean, from shivering on the tail of my dad’s windsurf to clinging onto the rail of his boat in the winter rain. Summers were warmer; bodyboarding at Les Landes on the Biscay coast and being ragdolled in the shore break. I love open water with a fearful reverence for its enormous power.
The first time I surfed was in my late teens. As a big group of friends (mostly boys), we drove to Croyde in North Devon for a weekend. It was fun, but I was nervous about the green waves. I felt self-conscious when I fell. I didn’t try it again for years.
I know many water women who refuse to try surfing because they don’t know the etiquette or are reluctant to paddle into a male-dominated lineup. Some are put off by the assumption that only silken-haired bikini models are welcome. But the tide is turning, thanks to a few female surfers who have started their own, inclusive, women-only retreats.
Erika Drolet founded Salty Souls after she noticed that women were reclaiming adventure spaces. “There’s a collective craving for experiences that go beyond the surface – where you can push your limits, but also slow down and reconnect with yourself,” she says. “Women come for the surf but stay for the sisterhood, the self-discovery.”
Mastering any new skill takes time and patience. Surfing involves surrendering to the ocean, which is both empowering and intimidating. You must accept that you might not stand up on day one and that there will be embarrassing wipeouts, even if you’re a natural.
Avid surfer and clinical psychologist Dr Soph Mort discovered her passion for surfing at a Women Soulful Surf retreat in Lombok, Indonesia. She went for a week but stayed for three. “I had to confront my inner perfectionist. Surfing is unpredictable. The waves and conditions can change moment by moment. Some days, you’re flying; others, you feel like a beginner again. My self-talk often became my biggest obstacle, and I had to work hard to remind myself that I wasn’t there to impress anyone. I was there to enjoy it.”
“By surfing with other women,” says Soph, “we can reclaim the beach as a place of play rather than performance. The focus is on playfulness, persistence, and supporting each other.”
The founder of Women Soulful Surf, Helena Richardson, moved to Australia in 2016. She found it so intimidating to return to surfing after having a baby that in 2020, she started WSS for other women.
“Taking space in the waves can be so hard for women. We have the tendency to say sorry – we don’t want to be too much, and we often believe that we’re not good enough to even be there. It’s been a big process of unlearning that conditioning. As women, we are more risk averse, so it’s important that we aren’t pushed out of our comfort zone but invited to step out of it in a safe and supportive environment.”
When Melanie White learnt to surf on the West Coast of Ireland in winter, she was one of only a handful of women along that coastline. “I was having these gigantic energetic experiences, and the men I surfed with didn’t relate. I’d paddle out in winter breaks with my heart beating in my chest, and it forced me to really look at what was going on in my psyche around fear. Most women meet this fear wall, and it tends to be this point that they abandon surfing.”
She started Rebelle in Country Sligo to encourage more women to overcome that fear. “On our camps, there can be women in their early 60s with women in their early 20s and the atmosphere is electric, fun and uplifting. 50-something-year-old women are absolute powerhouses and some of the best surfers because they just don’t care what other people think, and they give it everything.”
Holly Beck founded Surf with Amigas after moving to Nicaragua in the mid-90s and realising that few women felt comfortable in that space. She began by bringing in female friends to empower them – teaching them to understand tides, how to read the forecast, the difference between surfboards, the different techniques and etiquettes – instead of simply pushing them out into a wave.
Holly’s holistic surf coaching draws heavily on her Master’s degree in counselling to help women address and overcome unconscious barriers. After all, surfing is more of a mental sport than people realise. It’s a moving meditation, which requires full presence – a flow state.
“If somebody didn't catch a wave, it might be because they didn't paddle hard enough, but it might also be because they still have an underlying belief that they don't belong or that if they mess up, they're not going to get another wave. All these things impact their surfing performance.”
No one understands better than Victoria Feige. A competitive Canadian Para surfer and clinical physiotherapist, she signed up for Holly’s Indonesia retreat and was nervous because although she’s an experienced surfer, she’s also a wheelchair user: “I found a smart, funny, supportive crew of women,” she says, “with ramps, a 4WD sand truck for beach access, a few clutch piggybacks and some playful problem-solving, we all made it work.”
At Mamawata in Nosara, Costa Rica, Eki Altman’s approach is focused on inclusivity and empowerment. She sought to create a space where women could feel completely supported in and out of the water.
“There’s something powerful about women learning, falling, and succeeding together. It fosters encouragement over competition, support over intimidation. Women thrive in these environments because they feel seen, understood, and celebrated without judgment or pressure. It’s not just about surfing; it’s about stepping into our own power in and out of the water.”
Retreaters at Mamawata say it has helped them cultivate deeper self-love. They’ve learned to embrace their bodies, honour their strengths and weaknesses, and discover new ways to appreciate themselves.
The ocean is a space of healing and play, and all-female retreats provide a space for deep connection, encouragement, and celebration of each other’s progress, no matter what level, body shape or age.
The best all-female surf retreats in the world
The Salty Souls
All-inclusive surf trips at The Salty Souls are run by the uber-cool author of SURF, Erika Drolet. But the magic happens in the in-between moments – over post-surf coconuts, sunset yoga, or vulnerable group talks. Retreats are from £2,362 for seven nights. Sign up for the superb online strength and conditioning yoga programme to prepare for your trip.
Location: Ecuador, Indonesia, Philippines
Website: saltysoulsexperience.com
Surf with Amigas
Whether beginner or shredder, Holly and her fun, all-female crew offer 80 retreats a year throughout Central America, with a focus on ethical and eco-conscious places without crowds. From Nicaragua and Mexico to Sumatra and Peru, this would appeal to adventurous spirits who want to explore beyond the break. From £2057 for six nights.
Location: Nicaragua
Website: surfwithamigas.com
Salty Girls
From five-week surf clinics to two-day ocean workshops covering ocean engagement, surf basics, etiquettes, water knowledge, board skills and techniques, Salty Girls is Australia’s first owned and operated all-female school, 45 minutes north of Byron Bay. Belén Alvarez Kimble and her team are warm and supportive, a great choice for young girls to build their confidence. Prices vary.
Location: Tweed Coast, Australia
Website: saltygirls.com.au
Dihya Surf
Five-time Morocco surf champion Maryam Elgardoum offers lessons, mindful coaching and local guidance to girls and women. Based in Tamraght, on the Atlantic coast, Maryam knows the local breaks like no one else, and her encouraging coaching style is ideal for anxious beginners.
Location: Taghazout, Morocco
Website: dihyasurfmorocco.com
Mama Wata
Founder Eki designed FLOW retreats to offer empowering surf and yoga weeks where women can gather with intention. Shared meals, formal circles, storytelling and sisterhood, set the tone in Mexico or Costa Rica. A bunk room costs from £2,570pp for 6 nights.
Location: Nosara, Costa Rica
Website: mamawatacr.com
Rebelle Surf
Based in the swanky new national surf centre of Ireland and with incredible facilities, Melanie’s Surf Alchemy workshops are intensive two-day immersions into surfing, with a focus on intuition and body awareness, identifying limiting belief systems, boundaries and confidence. The retreat costs €650 and includes accommodation.
Location: County Sligo, Ireland
Website: rebellesurf.com
Women and Waves
Operating with a “meet you where you’re at” coaching ethos, Women and Waves retreats are great for beginners: hosting mothers and daughters, solo travellers and women from their 20s to their 70s from all experiences and backgrounds.
Location: Cornwall, UK
Website: womenandwavessociety.com
The Wave
If you want to dip your toes in without committing to long-haul travel, try Sister Sessions at The Wave: all-female dates dedicated to offering an accessible space to learn. Price from £49 for a beginner lesson.
Location: Bristol, UK
Website: thewave.com
Flora Retreats
Indonesia’s first female competitive longboarder, Flora Christin, is a sponsored free surfer turned coach. She is about to relaunch her sell-out longboard retreats for 2025 – think technique, hang five and side-stepping at undisclosed locations to protect the spots and not allow them to be exploited. Check the website for details on 2025 prices and locations.
Location: Indonesia
Website: floraretreats.com
Women Soulful Surf
Trips to Lombok and Siargoa in the Philippines sell out like sex wax, but the three-night surf and yoga retreat at Crescent Head, NSW, is the definitive laid-back intro. Coach Sam fosters a supportive environment, while Helena is a stellar yoga instructor. Prices start at £1,650pp for sharing a twin room.
Location: Caves Beach, Australia
Website: womensoulfulsurf.com