Lisbon, Europe’s second oldest capital behind Athens, is Europe’s newest hot spot. But marching to the same beat – or should we say Fado – as the ever-swelling number of visitors are endless hotel openings, just launched restaurants and lively bars keeping up with the pace. As you will see though, from walking through the city (undoubtedly the best way to explore it), Lisbon lives as much on its cobbled streets as it does in its tile-clad buildings. Vibrant, friendly, beautiful - faded in parts, it captivates, offering the essence of Portugal, yet carrying on its sea breeze the scents, sounds and tastes of long-ago, far-off, discoveries. So, we've made the perfect itinerary for spending three days in Lisbon to enjoy all the sights and sounds of a much-beloved city.
Day one
Morning
Start at the magnificent, arcaded, Praça do Comércio, the site of the royal palace for 400 years. Here, visiting dignitaries would disembark from their boats, making it the finest gateway to Lisbon. Have a coffee (Bica is the Portuguese equivalent to Italy’s espresso and absolutely as good) in Lisbon’s oldest café, the Martinho da Arcada, which dates back to 1782 and was one of the haunts of the city’s literati, especially the poet Fernando Pessoa who even had his own table.
In this square there are several good museums. Dip into the Lisboa Story Centre, for an interactive overview of the city. And do not miss the Interpretive Centre of Cod História do Bacalhau, a food interwoven with the history, culture and gastronomy of Portugal.
Leave the square via its impressive triumphal arch and wind your way a few minutes upwards to Prado Restaurant, where farm-to-table food by talented chef António Galapito is served amidst lush greenery is what was once a fish factory. Do try the mushroom ice cream.
Afternoon
Head to Alfama after lunch, the oldest district of Lisbon and once its most desirable until fear of earthquakes in the Middle Ages prompted its wealthy residents to move out, leaving it to fishermen. Originally founded by the Moors in the 8th century, its kasbah-like layout is atmospheric; washing is strung across balconies, and bougainvillaea runs riot in tiny, fountain-filled squares. Visit the Castle of St. George, which King Afonso Henriques transformed from a citadel into a hilltop residence following the recapture of Lisbon from the Moors in 1147. It dominates the Lisbon skyline and offers a sweeping panorama over the city.
Evening
Continue seeking out views, this time with a drink. One of the nicest spots is the Terrace at the Bairro Alto Hotel, Bairro Alto Hotel Restaurant with its view over the river and the red roofs that run down to it. From here, head to dinner around the corner, either at the newly opened Vibe by Mattia Stancheiri who delivers changing cuisines (currently Cajun, next up Italian) with aplomb in a sleek basement or for some local colour go to Sea Me, a lively, noisy, crowded restaurant with a great range of traditional Portuguese seafood.
Night
Go for a drink to the Red Frog speakeasy, to finish the evening on a cocktail high. Try a Dirty Negroni or an aromatic Basil Smash.
Day two
Morning
Do like a local and grab breakfast on the run, a strong bica, and a pastel de nata at one of the beautiful old kiosks on the street, where you can just pull out a chair and watch the world waking up. It will set you up for the day.
Decide on which of the many museums you would like to visit. The National Tile Museum is a dream for the many fascinated by Portuguese azulejos (tiles) Museu Nacional do Azulejo, but it is rather out of the centre. More convenient is the Gulbenkian Museum which houses over six thousand objects ranging from Greco-Roman art to pieces by René Lalique.
Lunch at jncquoi, on Lisbon’s main thoroughfare. A treasure trove of its own with corners of Assouline books and Diptyque scents, men’s fashion, homeware and a deli bar. The restaurant, designed by Lázaro Rosa Violán has his trademark dinosaur as a centrepiece. Go for the gratin of codfish or the burrata with lobster.
Afternoon:
Treat yourself to some retail therapy if you emerge relatively unscathed from JnCQUOI. Their woman’s fashion is next door at JnCQUOI Asia and this road brims with designer shops. But if you want something more local, walk to Chiado, where many of the shops remain family businesses. Visit Claus Porto, whose deliciously fragranced store sells soaps and scents in jewel-like art deco packaging. Avida Portuguesa presents a Portugal of yesteryear with vintage toys and retro homeware. The Burel Factory weaves fabric from wool from sheep in the Serra da Estrela mountains into colourful, contemporary designs.
For foodie shopping Manteigaria Silva (Rua D. Antão de Almada 1 C e D) is the best place to go for superb hams and cheeses.
Evening
Explore the world of Portuguese wine at By The Wine where the country’s largest wine producer presents their entire range, accompanied by tapas.
Then head to Mini Bar for fun and food. Set in Chef José Avillez’s Bairro Avillez, where he operates a cluster of restaurants, Mini Bar delivers dazzling dishes which come with a twist.
Night
Praia no Parque is the perfect place for a nightcap or drinks and dancing on a Friday or Saturday night, under Lisbon’s starry skies.
Day three
Morning
Start the day in beautiful Belém, which lies at the mouth of the Tagus River, and is inextricably linked to Portugal’s Golden Age of Discovery as here the caravels set sail on their voyages centuries ago. This is where pasties de Belém (also known as pasties de nata) was created in 1837, allegedly from a recipe from the neighbouring Monastery of Jerónimos. At Pasteis De Belem, they come warm with a dusting of cinnamon which, along with a coffee, makes the perfect – Portuguese - breakfast.
Visit the monastery Mosteiro dos Jerónimos a monument to the wealth of the Age of Discovery, which it was financed by, and a fine example of Manueline architecture. The tomb of the great explorer Vasco da Gama is here, intricately carved with seafaring symbols.
Across the road, at the water’s edge is the 16th century Belém Tower, Torre de Belém, which marks the starting point for the navigators setting off on their discoveries. Its ornate Manueline exterior became a symbol of Portugal’s Age of Discovery. The coach museum and Belém’s tropical gardens are also worth popping into if you have the time.
But don’t miss lunch at Canalha (Rua da Junqueira 207), a really wonderful neighbourhood restaurant with tasty home cooking which opened recently with acclaimed chef, João Rodrigues at the helm.
Afternoon
After all that sightseeing, why not flop on the beach for your last afternoon? Costa da Capariça is less than 30 minutes away by Uber, and its dazzling white sand beaches, like Praia de Princesa, are a sight for sore (sun-starved) eyes.
Evening
Stay to watch the sun go down, the beach club here Praia Princesa makes great cocktails and sharing plates.
Night
Finish your visit with a late dinner and rooftop drinks with a view right across the capital at Seen, one of Lisbon’s hot spots and very much a ‘see and be seen; place. The menu encompasses a wide variety of excellent dishes from sushi to wagyu burgers, truffled linguini to lobster buns. From here you will probably start planning a return.