All products are independently selected by our editors. If you buy something, we may earn an affiliate commission.
When searching for the best way to spend a long weekend I can usually be found trying to appease opposite travel personalities; one who wants to squeeze every drop out of exploring a new place, and another determined to commit to much-needed rest and relaxation. As soon as I came across Le Complot in the South of France I knew that for this trip at least I’d found that elusive balance: a breathtaking bolthole within the medieval walls of Avignon, ideally located for exploring a few locations on my list and stunningly peaceful by design. It was exactly what two city-dwellers looking to shake off winter needed.
The 700 year old house is tucked into a maze of cool, silent streets; walking from the train (around 20 minutes) you can feel the bustle of real life being left behind and shoulders dropping a little further with each turn. We’re greeted by our wonderful host Dorian who whisks our bags to the mezzanine and upstairs suites while we take in the impossibly high-ceilinged atrium, spot original beams and architectural features and discover plenty of modern, curated touches too. The original visionaries behind the design, Dorian tells us, regularly return to swap out the art and sculpture on display, some of which is from current creators, some on loan from the city’s Papal archives.
In different hands the lofty space could feel like a gallery, but hotel-style comforts like robes, slippers and room service make us feel instantly at home. Also part of the welcome, much to our delight, is a baby tortoise named Virgil who has the run of the garden, an oasis-like haven shared with the guest house next door and run by the same team. Guests at Le Complot also have the option of booking the wellbeing facilities here which include a sauna, steam room and garden hot tub, but for now, we leave this array of relaxation options behind and take the ten-minute stroll into town to eat at one of Dorian’s recommended restaurants.
The building has lived many lives since it belonged to a Cardinal in the 1300s, one of which was a bar, and the manifesto from when it was a bohemian drinking den remains on the wall inviting you to conspire and plot, or as the name suggests, ‘comploter’, with artistic friends. The perfect spot for a night cap before falling into one of the three available suites, all of which are packed with unique details that bring out the residence’s long, rich history. The primary on the top floor boasts a sky light and a bed nestled between original beams, while the two mezzanine options are packed with charms like a fully stocked reading nook and garden-style doors with a view out over the terrace.
Designed for seclusion, the terrace and surrounding garden are landscaped to give you just a glimpse of the medieval walls beyond, making you feel totally a part of the area while also private and peaceful. In fact it’s so peaceful with the breeze lapping through the trees I find myself wondering if I’ve ever been anywhere properly quiet before. It’s the perfect place to spend a slow morning, especially as we’ve opted to have breakfast included, arriving downstairs to a basket filled with warm crusty baguettes, jams, mini pastries and fruit.
With ‘refresh and reset’ very much ticked off, next on the list is to tear ourselves away from the terrace, the city of Avignon on our doorstep too tempting to pass up. We have a few day trips on the agenda too: arty, inspirational Arles is just 15 minutes away by train while the Roman architecture of Nȋmes is around 30.
Will I be back? I hope so, but until then I will be mentally on the terrace, tree-gazing while Virgil the tortoise keeps me company.