Review: Shreyas Yoga Retreat, Bengaluru spa review

Why go?

If you are a wellness seeker looking to nourish body, mind and soul in an authentic environment that doesn’t compromise on contemporary luxuries, book your stay now. From the moment the car pulls into Shreyas – about an hour’s drive from Bengaluru’s international airport – it's an oasis of lush green.

You’ll have to be lucky to get a spot, though. Shreyas hosts a maximum of 31 guests at any time, catered to by a staff of 85. This precious staff-to-guest ratio adds to the charms of this “luxury ashram” that is evident in the quiet touches: the staff knows your preferred herbal teas, there’s a note resting on your pillow at the end of the day, and the slippers you leave outside rooms are helpfully turned around by the time it’s time to exit.

The 14 poolside cottages and garden tents and suites are spread across 25 acres, framed by swaying coconut trees. From the early morning cleansing rituals to the post-breakfast sound meditation that invariably segues into a philosophic discussion, Shreyas has its own distinct rhythm, and guests only have to fall in step in order to disconnect from the worlds they’ve left behind. The architecture is a confluence of old and new: antique archways, stone pillars, and a swimming pool flanked by sunbeds. The design elements encourage moments of pause: from the single-person walking trails punctuated by lily ponds to the pebbled private outdoor area with a water basin that the bathrooms open out to.

Yoga at Shreyas is taught twice daily in traditional ashram style in an open pavilion, to the natural soundtrack of birdsong. The meditation and chanting sessions are later in the day, with the aromatic smoke from the “sambrani” burners creating a more focused environment. The food is vegetarian, spanning both Indian and international cuisine, and tailored for each guest. It is not pre-portioned but ladled on to your plate as is custom in Indian homes. While there’s no alcohol on campus, none of it feels like a deprivation; there is great fanfare in how the food is presented and served.

What’s the backstory?

At 34, London-based Pawan Malik quit his successful banking career to open Shreyas. It was a trip to India in 2000, and an immersion in yoga and Vedanta, that turned things around for him. Shreyas means “all-round excellence” in Sanskrit and Malik worked with that operative goal. When it first opened its doors in 2004, it was as a yoga retreat. Malik acknowledged that yoga students worldwide were increasingly veering away from the physical set of processes called asanas to becoming drawn to the spiritual philosophy underlying these. Over time, Shreyas introduced Ayurveda and naturopathic treatments as well to augment modern allopathic treatments for overall well-being.

What’s the wellness concept?

Shreyas primarily relies on the two ancient principles of yoga and Ayurveda to heal and nurture, from its therapies and meditation to the food on offer. Naturopathy and a few western spa techniques are also on offer. The spa is a large standalone building with dedicated rooms for Ayurveda, Western massages, and a three-room section for hydrotherapies.

The campus itself is part of the healing, and guests are encouraged to benefit from the abundance of nature’s positive energy. Guests can walk the circular mud path around the cottages after lunch, tour the organic gardens; the barefoot walk on the spiky-pebbled reflexology path outside the spa is recommended as a daily must-do. It is designed to massage and stimulate reflex points on the feet which are connected to various energy meridians of the body, calming the nervous system and relaxing the muscles, among other things.

The yoga teachers and the Ayurveda doctors impart wisdom conversationally: one can learn of concepts like “micro-perspiration” of internal organs, how half-hour of scientific massage is equal to two hours of exercise, that cinnamon water aids menstrual cramps, and fenugreek seeds treat UTI.

Shreyas is equally steeped in quiet luxury and clinical rigour. Dr Satish, the medical lead, debunks the notion of Ayurveda being limited to massages and herbal teas, and advocates for its transformative powers on cell quality. He’s treated patients for Hashimoto's disease, lupus and hyperthyroidism, among other ailments. Both Ayurvedic and naturopathy intensive detox therapies are on offer but a minimum of 14 days is recommended for these.

What are the signature treatments?

Many of the repeat guests come specifically for the classic four-hands sarvanga abhyangam, or the traditional Ayurvedic massage. The use of buttermilk or milk in place of oil as needed for therapies is a specialty of Shreyas.

While the Ayurveda therapies heal and rejuvenate the body, naturopathy helps remove toxins. The mud wraps and packs, the mud immersion bath, and the athapa snana – in which the body is wrapped in banana leaves after an oil massage and you are asked to bask in the sun – are unique treatments. Another variation of this is the turmeric and rice paste bath, where warm paste is applied on the body and left to be dried under the sun.

The Shreyas principle of healing body, mind and soul finds its best expression in M.S. Balasundar, who heads the yoga programme, and has been at Shreyas for 14 years. His private meditation and guided yoga nidra (psychic sleep) sessions are much sought after. Bala, as he is known, draws his references from a range of texts including the Bhagavad Gita, Osho and Vedanta and helps guests understand the concept of the “healing crisis – the fact that you may feel worse before you feel better.

What makes it different?

One can indulge in cooking sessions, and try their hand at organic farming and cow milking. Shreyas encourages community service where guests are encouraged to pick, clean, chop and cook the vegetables grown in the retreat’s farm, and serve them as a meal at the Kaveri Vanitha Sevashrama orphanage in the nearby town that the retreat supports.

In many ways, Shreyas feels like home by virtue of the comfortable predictability it offers. It is no wonder that so many of the guests I met were repeat visitors – a management consultant from Germany, solo women travellers from Belgium and Canada, families from Mumbai. All the staff at Shreyas practices yoga, meditation and chanting as part of their routine, too. Unsurprisingly, most of them have been there for two decades. And like family, everyone seems to do a little bit of everything. You could spot the driver who picked you up from the airport helping the priest with floral arrangements. A 7-14 night stay is recommended but one can imagine living there far longer. Shreyas is quite the self-contained universe in itself.

Anything else to mention?

The majestic outdoor pool at the heart of the campus can offer a good break. It has stunning views of the surrounding landscape. If you are curious about cricket, make use of the automated bowling machine and cricket nets.

Final word

The verdant environment, the aromatic “sambrani” smoke, the therapies, the yoga and the nourishing food all come together to create a haven to pamper and heal. Shreyas runs like clockwork without the austerity of an ashram. Owing to its size, it is discreet. If you are ready for it, it can provide the right environment to start the journey down the spiritual path of self-discovery.

Shreyas offers both a good primer for first-timers and a reminder for regular guests to stay on track by integrating the manifold benefits of yoga into their daily lives. You are likely to leave with micro-practices woven into your daily schedule – even if it’s as simple as a glass of warm cumin water in between meals.

Healing Holidays (healingholidays.com/condenast; 020 7843 3592) can arrange a 7 night Silent Retreat programme from £1,599.00 per person sharing, including transfers, full board accommodation and inclusions of the programme