They say all things worth experiencing are worth working for, and Club Scanella, a secluded cliffside beach club on the beautiful island of Ischia, is worth the work.
This beach club, only accessible by boat or by 220 steps down a cliff, feels like a secret little world of its own. It oozes old-world charm and glamour, squirrelled away on a cliffside like some kind of private James Bond-esque bar – except one where you swap a shaken martini for a Campari spritz.
Hoping for a full day of relaxation, we decided to take eschew the steep steps and instead boarded a small boat from the colourful harbour town of San Angelo. Off we set into the open blues towards the bay of La Scanella. The journey was short; the boat edged closer to a hotel perched high on the cliffside after just 15 minutes. As we pulled into the dock, we were welcomed to rows of cerulean blue sun-bleached beds and parasols. Half-read books lay folded over on sunbeds while people climbed down silver ladders directly into the sea to seek relief from the Italian sun.
Unlike many other expensive beach clubs across Europe, there was no loud music, no DJ, no wait list, and no spending requirement – just a €35 fee for the use of the bed. We climbed the stairs (of which there were many) to the small reception of Hotel Scanella, where we were welcomed by the hotel's owner. He jotted our names down in a lined hardback notebook – there were no electronics in sight apart from an old wireless landline phone, and I couldn't help but be completely endeared by this. It felt like this place was stuck in time; effortlessly cool and totally chic.
As we checked in, the restaurant was abuzz with people sharing huge bowls of pasta and carafes of wine. The smell of garlic from glossy vongole floated through the air, and the sounds of tiny clinks as people dropped their empty clam shells on plates. We couldn't resist joining and ordered perfectly al dente spaghetti with prawns served in the huge pan it was cooked in. We washed down our delicious meal with a side of Italian Crodo Limonata before venturing back down the steep steps for a day of horizontal book-reading relaxation.
When it got too hot, we would cool off in the sea or take a dip in the sea pools built directly into the rocks, each filled with fresh seawater slightly warmed by the sun. There is no signal here, so when not engrossed in our books, we played cards or watched the boats drift along the expansive blue coastline.
At the end of the day, our plan was to take the boat back the way we came, but unfortunately, the weather had other ideas – the current was too rough for any boat to dock. Our only choice was the stairs — 220 steep steps up the cliff to the top. Calves burning and cheeks pinker than the bougainvillaea we passed on the walk up, but we finally made it (watching with envy as our bags followed behind us on the old pulley luggage lift). It was worth it though – a digital detox with excellent views, delicious food and the added bonus of a boot camp at the end, all for just €35 – a pretty good deal if you ask me.