We've always got one eye on any new restaurants opening on the London food scene. Our editors are on the ball for the latest openings in each London neighbourhood, from Covent Garden restaurants to Shoreditch hotspots. For the ultimate list of places to eat in the city, check out our definitive guide to London's best restaurants. These are the places that we consider the crème de la crème, from generations-old spots that have stood the test of time and Michelin-starred dining rooms that get better each year to mind-blowing new openings from this list that we decided deserved a spot on the ultimate round-up of the best restaurants in London.
For new restaurants opening in London recently, we've seen follow-ups from some of the city's biggest-name chefs. In 2024, Tom Sellers reopened Restaurant Story after closing for a multi-million-pound renovation, while Claude Bosi opened Lyonnaise restaurant Josephine. Endo Kazutoshi opened a rooftop sushi spot at The OWO, and Akira Back is at the helm of the restaurant at the new Mandarin Oriental Mayfair. We've seen a cluster of openings from Jason Atherton, Santiago Lastra's Kol follow-up, and a West London outpost of Covent Garden cult favourite, The Barbary. In the first half of 2025, we've seen Bosi's second Josephine outpost, this time in Marylebone, Shoreditch's coolest new restaurant, One Club Row, and the opening of Europe's tallest restaurant from the one and only Gordon Ramsay.
How we choose the tastiest new restaurant openings in London
The best new restaurants in London are the most exciting places to eat that have just opened in the capital city. Ranging from small affairs with daily changing menus from up-and-coming chefs to Michelin-starred spots with fresh new menus, these are London's new restaurants we've got our eye on right now.
Every restaurant on this list has been selected independently by our editors and written by a Condé Nast Traveller journalist who knows the destination and has eaten at that restaurant. When choosing new restaurants, our editors consider both high-end and affordable eateries that offer an authentic and insider experience of a destination. We’re always looking for stand-out dishes, a great location, warm service, and serious sustainability credentials. We update this list regularly as new restaurants open in London.
Best new London restaurants in June 2025
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Town, Covent Garden
Theatre-goers may be flocking to Drury Lane to see a play about cuddly, Ghibli-wibbly Japanese tree spirits in My Neighbour Totoro, but right opposite is a new show that’s just as escapist. And probably more fun. Chef impresario Stevie Parle’s latest production number has a cast list of ingredients sourced from around the UK – grass-fed beef tended by Groove Armada’s Andy Cato, Welsh lobster, Kent asparagus, Coombeshead Mangalitsa pork shoulder – and chefs with Luca, Saison and Padella on their CVs. But what hits you first of all is the set design. There are curves upon curves, lava-stone countertops and a green-lacquered kitchen counter; low-slung Jacobsen chairs and, above, an illuminated coffered ceiling. It’s very Italian disco, quite Rubik’s Cube and just a little 2001: A Space Odyssey. And with the pin-up print of an orange Dodge Charger on one wall, a tad Dukes of Hazzard. It’s the sort of decor that staff should really be roller-skating around to.
Next to all all this glamorous shimmy, you worry that the actual food may appear a little drab, or see-saw more towards style than substance, but Ballymaloe-trained Parle is a good old boy of London dining with restaurants such as Sardine, JOY and Pastaio under his belt. The snacks list is a joy, with surprises such as a gilda (mackerel, cucumber and shiso leaf), caviar and beef-fat crisps (the ultimate high-low?) and tongue-sized fried sage leaves crusted in honey from Parle’s bees. When did you last talk about sage leaves? The current star of the show, however, is the potato sourdough with house gravy, the deep, rich aroma of which seems to rise up from the dish and do an impression of the famous Bisto advert. You could just stop here, but waiting in the wings are steaks, that lobster (amplified by XO and lardo) and roasted bone marrow with spiced risotto, along with puds such as matcha ice cream and appley custard doughnuts. With a two-course lunch available for £23 and a service charge of just 10 per cent, it’s all attractively affordable. In the words of the old theatre review, if you have to beg, borrow or steal a ticket to experience this, then do so.
Address: 26-29 Drury Lane, London WC2B 5RL
Price: ££
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Best new London restaurants in May 2025
Lilli by Akira Back, Mayfair
Lilli is a coy character. The signature restaurant of the recently refurbished Montcalm Mayfair hotel has opened with minimal fanfare despite having a menu curated by ubiquitous Michelin-star chef Akira Back. Tucked away in a row of elegant Georgian townhouses just north of Marble Arch, the restaurant has tiptoed onto the dining scene with a hushed charisma. The gigantic modernist chandelier decorating its ceiling is a metaphor for Lilli’s understated brilliance: visually arresting yet emitting a soft, unobtrusive light. Its low glow over velvety green furniture gives the place a botanical Speakeasy vibe – soothing settings to enjoy Chef Back’s trademark Asian-influenced European cuisine.
The tiger shrimp starter was out of this world, slathered in Dynamite Sauce with mayo, garlic, paprika and sweetcorn that was so tasty we would’ve sucked our shells clean if it were socially acceptable. Other starters included the fresh and flavoursome Loch Duart salmon with shimeji mushrooms, samphire and rice crackers, plus the wasabi-marinated celeriac sweetcorn puree with edamame.
The halibut main was almost as impressive. A fish so prone to dryness came out moist and tender, its delicate flavour complemented by the subtlety of the banyuls vinaigrette and smashed potatoes. The Beef Wellington was encased in perfectly buttery pastry and teamed with dauphinoise potato and white kimchi. But the standout was the pasta: a beautiful but deceptively ordinary-looking Calabrian rigatoni with burrata, spinach and sun-dried tomatoes. Lilli delivers on the cocktail front too, offering fruity and herbivorous concoctions themed for the seasons, such as the autumnal Golden Dawn, a mix of Planteray dark rum, velvet falernum, hibiscus, apple, and rose lemonade. It’s time we made some noise for this quiet gem of a place. Noo Saro-Wiwa
Address: Lilli by Akira Back, 2 Wallenberg Place, London W1H 7TN
Price: £££
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Hello JoJo, Camberwell
Camberwell’s local community is fiercely loyal, so when we heard that Forza Win was shutting its doors, we felt a sense of unease as to what would open in its place. When Hello JoJo opened for business, we knew our concerns were unwarranted. This new opening sits like a beacon on Camberwell Church Street – a powder blue exterior with bright red arched windows beckons you from the hustle and bustle. The interior feels much like a Danish design showroom: various blues make up the plywood countertops that give way to tiled walls; slick pendant lights and mushroom lamps provide the perfect lighting for large-scale local artwork across the back wall; groovy bench seating and cherry red tables create a balance of textures. It’s a comfortable space to spend an evening. The ambience is incredibly community-centric – locals stream in and out while Jo herself greets diners. The menu celebrates seasonal sharing plates, meaning we had an incredible variety, given that spring is well and truly in full swing. We started with a warm, fresh mini-loaf (yes, mini-loaf) of bread, the ideal dipping vehicle for the earthy artichoke cream. This dish might have been my favourite of the evening. What can I say? I love a bread course. Next, we ordered the cod cheek kokotxas, fava asparagus and yellow wax beans, the courgette and basil ditalini, and potato dumplings and peas served on buttermilk. The dishes came out in quick succession, making it challenging to fit everything on the table; however, I do appreciate serving dishes while they’re hot. The larger plates were by far my favourite of the bunch – the courgette and basil ditallini was rich in colour and the sweetness of the courgette with the slightly peppery basil made for a beautifully balanced dish. The potato dumplings were incredibly rich, which was to be expected; the exteriors were crisp and crunchy, while the peas and buttermilk brought through a lovely sweet flavour. We rounded things off with a rapeseed oil mousse, juicy strawberries (it’s a good year for berries, and it shows!), and toasted buckwheat. It was a deliciously light way to end a lovely evening. Hello JoJo will undoubtedly become another Camberwell favourite. Top tip: they'll also open a bakery at the end of May, slinging out delicious pastries and must-buy breads. Amber Port
Address: 31 Camberwell Church St, London SE5 8TR
Price: ££
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Permit Room Portobello, Notting Hill
The queue stretching down Portobello Road provokes a gasp as we arrive at Permit Rooms on a balmy spring evening. Not that its popularity should come as any surprise, mind. The soft launch offer of 50 per cent off the food bill in return for honest feedback helps. Still, the hundred-strong throng of hungry Londoners eager to be among the first into the restaurant reflects the capital’s ongoing love affair with Dishoom, from which Permit Rooms comes. The first London outpost, which follows successful openings in Brighton, Oxford and Cambridge, is a buzzy billet-doux to Bombay’s drinking dens – all-day hangouts for hungry passers-by. Downstairs, a cacophony of clinking cutlery and hums of satisfaction fill the street-level bar area, chestnut and chocolate shades joyfully interrupted by the bar face’s playful deep turquoise. The immersive decor flows into the dining room above, where we’re sat and watch the hustle and bustle play out between overflowing tabletops as we anticipate the arrival of a rich chai caffè martini. Menus mirror those of Dishoom’s to an extent, albeit with a generous spread of options exclusive to the Permit Room format. We ladle peanut masala, a crunchy jumble of roasted fresh peanuts tossed with chopped tomato, onion, coriander, chilli and lime juice, into our mouths between cocktail sipping, and the main event soon follows. Service is speedy, so much so that we’re soon surrounded, picky bits and larger dishes side-by-side. We swerve the signature chicken ruby in favour of the mattar paneer, creamy cubes of cheese and a hearty helping of peas inviting us to pile them atop piles of rice and get to work with steaming scraps of naan bread. However, it’s the prawn recheado that warrants a return visit sooner rather than later. Plump, pan-tanned prawns piled in a tangy masala of red chillies, garlic and ginger – a satisfyingly meaty event that has us in a stand-off over the last bite. Reluctantly *cough cough* pudding appears. Piping hot rum-soaked gulab jamun is better suited to a chilly winter’s evening, but it is the excuse we jump at to book in and overindulge another time. With Permit Room Lodgings, a sumptuous set of bedrooms directly above the restaurant, set to open within weeks, I’ll hopefully be shimmying into pyjamas rather than standing on the tube home next time I feast in this leafy corner of Notting Hill. Connor Sturges
Address: Permit Room, 186 Portobello Road, London W11 1LA
Price: ££
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One Club Row, Shoreditch
Is there anything cooler than entering a bar or restaurant through a door that only those in the know can recognise? Perhaps when said restaurant is on one of East London’s back streets, and the walls that surround it are covered in a rainbow of artsy graffiti. Inside, up the rickety wooden staircase and behind a velvet curtain, is One Club Row, the intimate new dining space inspired by New York glamour and the city’s old-school approach to hospitality. Seats at the bar are considered the best in the house by some, but our perch on a circular, white clothed table in the far corner of the room would be my go-to every time – where better to people watch and soak up the buzz of a space filled with sociable chatter and the melodic sound of a cocktail shaker chilling a frosty martini?
Since we’re on it, the martinis deserve a special mention. The signature recipe is sweet, sophisticated and dangerously morish. Served alongside oysters, I feel fully immersed in this New York City fantasy I’ve entered. We share small plates of scallops served in the shell, doorstep sourdough with salted butter, and tuna crudo, before moving on to Champagne and a fillet of roasted cod so beautiful I can still taste it now. The menu is varied and tempting, and I mentally confirm an order of lobster tagliatelle when I (inevitably) return, though the table next to us seems wholly delighted with their rib-eye steak for two. To finish, twice-baked chocolate cake with crème fraiche and a wedge of strawberry-topped cheesecake that tastes nostalgic in the best possible way. I want to stay and soak up the atmosphere, and it feels rude not to order a nightcap. A round of Manhattans to stick with the theme. Cheers to a wonderful evening in New York, by way of Shoreditch.
Address: One Club Row, 1 Club Row, London E1 6JX
Price: £££
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Josephine Marylebone
A Claude Bosi opening always has us rubbing our hands in anticipation. Six months after the super-chef’s last eatery, Socca, closed down in Mayfair, he and his wife Lucy have unveiled Joséphine in Marylebone, and we’d put money on it becoming one of central London’s most beloved French restaurants. In contrast to the Lyonnaise cuisine served at sister eatery Josephine Bouchon in Chelsea, the menu here is full-on classic Parisienne, with interiors to match: café curtains, antique walled mirrors smothered with Art Nouveau posters and Impressionist prints; ceiling murals of Cancan dancers, and a soundtrack replete with Jeanne Moreau chansons françaises and Serge Gainsbourg’s lascivious vocals. The effect is cosy, immersive and ever so French.
Brasserie classics dominate the starters, like the Camembert soufflé and the knockout French onion soup, its layers beautifully tangy and peppery. Mains include bold-flavoured filet de bœuf and poulet aux Morilles, while potato junkies will love the pommes de terre menu, featuring spuds in all forms, from purée to frites. I paired my gratin Dauphinois with a juicy pork belly main, mushrooms and wholegrain mustard, which hit the spot just as hard as the crispy-skinned brill. Only cooked seafood was available on opening night, but something tells us the menu’s Homard Mayonnaise, langoustines, crevettes roses and freshly shucked oysters at the dedicated oyster kiosk will be worth the wait.
Another standout feature is the vast and excellent range of wines and vintage champagnes, mainly from the Loire Valley and Bordeaux; and in a rare treat, there’s even Salon Blanc de Blancs Brut by the glass. Desserts took a playful turn with the blast-from-the-past banana split, a retro riot of chantilly and glacé cherries beneath a cocktail umbrella. Other items include popular staples like the Rhum Baba and the Grand Marnier soufflé (though the latter was actually a parfait but we’ll let that one slide since the rest of the menu rocked). The overall verdict: magnifique. Noo Saro-Wiwa
Address: 6-8 Blandford Street, London, W1U 4AU
Price: ££
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Tatar Bunar, Shoreditch
Traditional Ukrainian dishes aren't exactly common in the UK, but that hasn't stopped the crowds from gathering at Tatar Bunar, which is packed out just one week on from its Shoreditch launch. The 90-cover space, named after the owner's hometown of Tatarbunary in the country's relatively warmer southern region, is the first London outpost from Ukrainian restaurateurs Alex Cooper and Anna Andriienko. Inside is an ode to the country's traditional craftsmanship, with soft terracotta and neutral styling pepped up with art by various Ukrainian artists – watermelons feature heavily in one painting, which grow abundantly in the south – and tiles, crockery and vases by Svetlana Sholomitska, made during the blackouts in Kyiv. It's an education in regional cuisine, with a menu led with Alex's mother's own recipes, nodding to decades-old family traditions. But that doesn’t make it your average Ukrainian fare – at least not according to my native dining partner. Signature varenyks dumplings, typically filled with potato, are instead stuffed with lamb and beef with a blob of sharp pickled tomatoes on the side. Sour cream, a national staple served alongside most meals, is smoked (“I just asked my mother and she has never heard of such a thing," says my friend). It's a sharing concept, but portions are generous enough to assuage any naysayers, and staff will readily talk through dishes if you're unfamiliar. Either way, it's a joy to try something new. Soft onion bread comes with lardo; a fatty, thinly-sliced layer of pork rind to be smeared on top. A bowl of tiny pickled tomatoes is a sweet, moreish delight with each bite (a surprise favourite among everyone who's tried). A highlight is a bowl of banush; an indulgent chunk of oxtail that falls immediately off the bone atop buttery mash and a swirl of pesto, and a flame-grilled rabbit skewer has a char almost as smoky as the sour cream. Eating here was a novel experience all round, but a simple bowl of fluffy potato latkes, arriving hidden among a jumble of spinach and mushroom, elicited the grandest response from my more knowledgeable partner: “For me, this tastes like home.” Charley Ward
Address: 152 Curtain Rd, London EC2A 3AT
Price: £££
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Best new London restaurants in March 2025
The Lavery, South Kensington
I recently took a trip where I met a friendly American family who told me they would soon be visiting London for a couple of days. “What should we do with our time?” they asked, to which I replied, “Museums are always a safe bet, and you don’t have to rely on the weather”. But then I remembered: “Oh, but you might want to go somewhere else to eat, the restaurant options in South Kensington aren’t great.” How lovely, then, to soon after find a note about a new restaurant in my inbox promising beautiful ingredients, a unique setting and a regularly-changing menu.
The Lavery is a restaurant, cafe and event space a stone’s throw from South Kensington station. Its position amidst the chain restaurants known to populate the area automatically makes it a top choice for diners wanting something more upmarket, but its history as the former home and studio of painter Sir John Lavery will entice architecture aficionados. And they won’t be disappointed. The room housing the restaurant offers something totally different than most restaurants; expect high ceilings, original wooden flooring and a refreshingly simple lack of decor – the fireplace, baroque-style mirrors and intricate cornicing sit as a focal point around the tables, allowing the chatter of diners to gently drift across the room and enhance the feeling of being in someone’s living room (albeit a very fancy living room).
The menu, led by former River Café chef Yohei Furuhashi, highlights Mediterranean seasonality while incorporating influences from the British Isles. The offering changes daily but, during our visit, we were particularly impressed by the seafood on offer; the Scottish scallop was served with tomato for a unique bite, while the monkfish with beans had a fresh kick of olive oil and lemon coming through. The pomelo and passionfruit mess is a much-photographed dish, but I’d skip its tartness in favour of the loquat and hazelnut tart next time. And a special mention to the inventive wine list, with glasses from Slovakia and Georgia, plus the excellent cocktails served from the chic bar next door: the rhubarb sour is one I’d return for. All in all, The Lavery offers a vibey, unique dining experience in a part of London that’s been begging for a shake-up. Abigail Malbon
Address: The Lavery, 4 Cromwell Place, South Kensington, London SW7 2JE
Price: ££
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Lucky Cat at 22 Bishopsgate
In terms of sensational cityscapes, Gordon Ramsay’s new Lucky Cat restaurant at 22 Bishopsgate surely can’t be topped. Since opening last month, it has taken the official spot of the highest restaurant in Europe, and it is by no means for those with a fear of heights. Spread across three floors, Ramsay has opened his latest pan-Asian offering (the original London location opened in 2019 in Mayfair), a 12-seater version of his Restaurant Gordon Ramsay High, a cooking academy and a roof terrace that is set to open on the very top of the building. A lift shoots guests high up to the 60th floor at a lightning rate, and doors open onto the glitz and glamour of a sweeping bar, a slick open kitchen and plush red velvet banquette seating you’ll be hard-pressed to pull yourself out of. And, of course, there is that view. At the risk of sounding hyperbolic, the experience of looking out of the giant swathes of glass out to the panoramic views of the capital is so high up that most of the city below looks like a toy play set of sorts. You find yourself looking down on all the greatest hits: the Tower of London, the Shard, and the river Thames, which looks like nothing more than a simple stream from such great heights. And then, of course, it’s back to the internal workings, which are fabulous in their own right. There is something wonderfully celebratory about the atmosphere at Lucky Cat, which somehow begs you to dig in, stay a while, and have fun.
The Lucky Cat Negroni is a fun way to kick things off, a dice being rolled to determine the combo of gin, vermouth and bitters used in your cocktail (there are, apparently, 216 possible options). If that isn’t to your liking, the drinks list is seemingly endless and, as the restaurant is open until 3am from Thursdays to Saturdays (complete with live music), the bar is set to become a late-night London hotspot in and of itself. Lovers of sushi, sashimi and nigiri are spoilt for choice; the chef’s sushi platter is a great option if you want all that and more from the astonishing raw bar. The ‘bottomless baos’ are also proving a big hit, and if you aren’t a raw fish lover, the robata grill offerings, the tempura, the Japanese fillet steak – all will delight. And, as you leave, waved away by the endless golden Maneki-neko cats that adorn the restaurant, remember those are not party favours (Ramsay recently bemoaned the many that are being taken home by diners as keepsakes). Cass Farrar
Address: Floor 60, 22 Bishopsgate, London, EC2N 4AJ
Price: £££
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Silva, Mayfair
There’s a new Mediterranean eatery in town and it's as stylish as it is delicious. Silva's inconspicuous location, on a cobbled alley just off Bond Street, makes it all the more alluring. Curved walls are lined with comfy sofas wrapped in eclectic patterns juxtaposing angular tables and sculpted wooden chairs. It’s open all day, but despite the breakfast menu’s temptations, it’s dinner that you want to be here for. The space itself is long and slim, softly lit with embedded lighting, and an alcove at the back separates a couple of tables from the main room. That said, the setting feels intimate throughout, and even the smaller tables – set pretty close to one another – feel cosy. Upstairs, there’s a private dining room; I’m told when the restaurant opened in November, it hosted multiple festive celebrations and I can see why. Perhaps they served a taste of imaginative cocktail recipes courtesy of the mixologists downstairs or wines chosen specifically by the on-site sommelier? We’re treated to this at dinner, though the non-alcoholic creations also deserve a special mention.
Now for the food. The presentation is beautiful and begins with seabass crudo and salmon tartare, which I can recommend. Dishes change with the season, and we chose spatchcock chicken and wild mushroom risotto, which felt warming yet surprisingly light – a combination that worked well considering the list of desserts, which we’d eyed up before so much as taking off our coats. Basque cheesecake and chocolate tart make it impossible to choose just one, and while I wouldn’t describe Silva as a classic ‘sharer plate’ dining destination like so many in London, here’s where we tasted both. With dinner this memorable, maybe I will try the breakfast offering after all. Sarah Bannerman
Address: Silva Restaurant, 26-28 Bruton Place, London W1J 6NG
Price: £££
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The Brave, Islington
With lashings of comfort, dollops of innovation and more than a crumb of unpretentious style, it’s only fair that James Cochran’s latest foodie venture is being celebrated across the city. The Brave may be marketed as a “bistro-pub”, but I’d place it more in the “bistro” category than the traditional sticky-floored London boozer. Perched on the lively Essex Road, The Brave’s jolly blue exterior is easy to spot – with windows awash in warm candlelight, it’s an enticing scene on a freezing evening in February.
Taking inspiration from both his Scottish and Caribbean heritage (think neep and tattie hash browns or the jerk chicken scotch egg), Cochrane’s new menu showcases the best ingredients from the UK’s wild larder – from Whitstable rock oysters drizzled in a bone marrow vinaigrette to a zippy Scottish razor clam ceviche. The menu consists mostly of small plates ideal for sharing, and though you might think this would make choosing our selection that bit easier, we spent many minutes poring over the options and debating which dishes to shortlist. Some highlights included the succulent prawn toast, a beef tartare bite that was transcendental and the softest Devonshire crab in a lively curry sauce. Suitable for those with a serious sweet tooth, we finished with the baked Alaska dessert – pearlescent cascades of marshmallowy goodness (almost) too aesthetically pleasing to tuck into.
Ever since the closure of his locally revered flagship 12:51 last September, there’s certainly been a James Cochran-shaped hole on the Islington dining scene. 12:51 has left some big shoes to fill, but this brave new venture is, in my opinion, more than capable of taking on the challenge. Lucy Bruton
Address: The Brave, 340-342 Essex Road, London N1 3PB
Price: ££
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Best new London restaurants in February 2025
Bar Valette, Shoreditch
Something I love about London is the juxtaposition. It’s fascinating for so many truths to exist at once – the frenzied energy of Kingsland Road and the sheer comfort and laid-back nature of a restaurant like Bar Valette. The deep green exterior and warm light that seeps from the windows are like a siren’s song that beckons us into its cosy depths. The interiors are stylish but not pompous. Colourful cubist artworks sit on taupe walls, while minimalist light fixtures dot the space, creating a relaxed ambience. Shelves lined with pots, glasses and jars of preserves accentuate the room while guests chat at white paper cloth tables. We sit and are promptly greeted by Wilem, who encourages us to order their house Martini, a savoury, dry take on the classic cocktail. It comes as no surprise that Isaac McHale, the chef behind London’s beloved Clove Club, whipped up an unfussy menu that pays homage to the vibrant dishes of Southern France and the simplicity of Spanish food. We sip greedily while looking at the menu noting the nice balance of meat and fish dishes to suit all palates, but it’s not incredibly vegetarian-friendly, which, thankfully, is fine by me. The menu includes picky bits, starters, mains and, of course, pudding. We start with a Swiss chard barbujuan and clapshot croquette, both of which are delicious. The barbujuan is the stand-out of the two dishes – an ever-so-delicate ravioli-shaped fritter filled with subtle flavours from the chard. Let's talk about starters. Specifically, the braised venison meatballs and snails, cooked Madrid-style, i.e. in a pork trotter broth. The snails were tasty but not for the faint-hearted – it’s a messy and hands-on affair where you become incredibly aware that you are eating snails, something my partner struggled to overcome. I had no problems, but relationships are all about balance, right? However, something that we could agree on is that the meatballs were out of this world. Rich with umami and perfectly fatty – a killer dish that must be ordered – no ifs, ands, or buts. We share the whole sea bream with green olive emulsion as our main. Hints of smokiness cut through the delicate flavour of the sea bream and are beautifully balanced by the olive tapenade's briny notes. Don’t sleep on the sides either – the duck fat sauté potatoes are so indulgent and incredibly worth it. We finish with a sweet wine and gâteau basque. This dessert hails from the French side of Basque country and boasts a layer of dried fruit and custard with a crumbly buttery crust. And my, oh my, was it the cherry on top of an unreal meal. So folks, don’t walk, run to Bar Valette. Amber Port
Address: Bar Valette, 28 Kingsland Road, London E2 8AA
Price: £££
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La Môme, The Berkeley, Knightsbridge
Ever since twin brothers Ugo and Antoine Lecorché opened La Môme in Cannes in 2015, serving classic-contemporary Provencal and Italian cuisine, the restaurant quickly became a fixture on the French Riviera, expanding along the rue Florian before branching into Monte Carlo. So when the siblings announced a London iteration at The Berkeley Hotel in Knightsbridge, fans were ecstatic. It’s a wholesale transfer in which nothing has been lost in translation: the same peachy-hued interiors by award-winning interior architect Samy Chams (in a space previously occupied by Marcus Wareing’s Michelin-star Marcus); and the same fabulous food presented with performative flair, be it the thyme snipped at the table and mixed with olive oil, or the whole seabass delivered in flames and filleted tableside. It’s what La Môme does best: traditional high-end service executed from the heart in a casual, fun atmosphere, soundtracked by confidently unpretentious pop classics and a live singer-pianist.
Classic cocktails with a Mediterranean twist (e.g. the Winter Sour with Amaretto) were followed by knockout crudo starters. The gorgeously fatty tuna tartare and sesame oil was fresh and tangy; the ceviche-style seabass with crunchy corn came with a passion fruit sauce that complimented it quietly. The yellowtail carpaccio in a citrusy ponzu dressing was divine. A similar intensity of flavour was guaranteed in the mains, such as the scallop risotto main scattered with taste-bomb capers. Truffles junkies will love the Beef Rossini fillet in a Périgourdine sauce, topped with seared foie gras and copious shavings of fresh black truffle. Seared in my brain is the grilled seabass, topped with tomatoes and pine nuts in a sensational white wine vinegar marinade that rendered the tall pepper dispenser, standing so prominently on the table, utterly redundant. The desserts did not disappoint either, my favourite being the six-inch Cookie, an indulgent melange of Nutella, milk and dark chocolate, pistachio cream and vanilla ice cream. The entire menu was Riviera sunshine on a plate. Judging by the crowd – a cross-section of lovers, families, business suits, the old and the young – La Môme looks set to become a stalwart of the London food scene, and rightly so. We love it. Noo Saro-Wiwa
Address: La Môme London, Wilton Place, London SW1X 7RL
Price: £££
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Restaurant Gordon Ramsay High, City of London
I’m always wary of a restaurant with a view. Too often, destination dining addresses hide behind their natural vantage points – whether oceanfront, mountain top or city skyline. As I zoomed up 60 floors in the elevator at 22 Bishopsgate, I could feel both gravity and some niggling doubts start to take hold. It’s the opening night of Gordon Ramsay’s ambitious new dining concept, Restaurant Gordon Ramsay High – a 12-seater chef’s table that, at 269 metres above ground, makes it the tallest restaurant in Europe.
I enter via the reimagined Lucky Cat where the music is thrumming, the decor is glitzy, and the energy is electric – quite the contrast to slip into RGR High, a clean and cool room with dark, understated design details, the glittering London skyline mapped out before us being the only embellishment this space needs.
RGR High subverts the normal chef’s table set-up. Where diners are usually positioned at the front row of the cooking action, here, they’ve placed the kitchen behind the guests. As we sat down it became clear that this was a clever trick of double exposure – the activity in the kitchen behind being reflected onto the view in front.
This attention to detail is reflected throughout the carte blanche menu too, influenced each day by season, suppliers or the whim of executive chef James Goodyear. Some of the more innovative courses on tonight's menu included an oyster ice cream that sat like a perfect pearl, a cocoa-encrusted duck and a creamy truffle "cappuccino". Aside from the experimental, I’m reminded that you can tell a good restaurant by its humble bread serving. Bountiful round pillows bursting at the seams with sage and onion overtones remind me of home cooking and Sunday roasts, elevated by a slathering of airy liver parfait. Each course slips down with the help of the carefully considered wine pairing, with glasses showcasing the best grapes from Austria to Australia. As it turns out, I should have left my niggling doubts on the ground floor. Lucy Bruton
Address: Restaurant Gordon Ramsay High, 22 Bishopsgate, City of London, London EC2N 4BQ
Price: £££
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Dove, Notting Hill
Anything attached to super chef Jackson Boxer is guaranteed to draw crowds, so getting a table at Dove the week after launch was no easy feat. Luckily, the buzz around the new – or rather, updated – opening was entirely justified. Located in the heart of Notting Hill, Dove replaces Boxer’s Orasay; the much-loved seafood restaurant that, by the chef’s own admission, “...was never a very lucrative business”. The newer iteration has a more accessible menu, simply made up of dishes that Boxer himself wants to cook and eat; a simple concept, but it’s clear that leading with passion can only be a positive thing in the current climate.
The result is a menu that’s casual but innovative: a plate of winter tomatoes served with sour cream and a smoky chilli crisp was memorable, and a true representation of this menu: seemingly simple dishes that you’d need to spend hours or even days getting right at home. The potato cakes topped with yuzu, lardo and juicy red prawns were fat, full of flavour and an ideal way to get started. The grilled bavette steak with black garlic and bone marrow was perfectly done, and the coffee cardamom caramel cream was a beautiful blend of bitter and sweet, with some unique flavours peeping through. With just the two of us eating, it was impossible to get through everything on the menu, but there were a few dishes I’d love to return to try; the chicken in Cafe de Paris butter, first and foremost.
Despite the heaving schedule, service was a highlight of the meal, and staff recommended a wonderful wine that paired well with our wide variety of dishes. We spoke briefly with Boxer, who seemed thrilled with the change of pace and initial reception the new menu was getting. There’s no doubt that this one will be well-received by regulars and first-timers alike, and I'll be right there among them, fighting for a table. Abigail Malbon
Address: 31 Kensington Park Rd, London W11 2EU
Price: ££
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Don't Tell Dad, Queen's Park
Forget Old Compton Street or Marylebone High Street: there's a new foodie thoroughfare in London – and it's not even in Zone 1. Pretty, cobbled Lonsdale Road, which cuts through leafy neighbourhood Queen's Park, has quietly been making a name for itself with a clutch of bright restaurants keeping locals, well, local, and drawing curious foodies northwest in the pursuit of a brilliant supper. First came Aussie joint Milk Beach, then Eastern Mediterranean Carmel. Now, bakery-meets-restaurant Don't Tell Dad has flung open its doors to add more star power to an otherwise unassuming street. Helmed by Coco di Mama founder and Queen's Park resident Daniel Land, he's installed head chef Luke Frankie (ex-Noble Rot, Forza Wine and Spring) at the pass, while Keren Sternberg (previously of Layla) oversees the concoctions in the bakery.
As a local, I'd already popped in twice before visiting for dinner one cold January evening just before the team hard-launched – which meant I had tried an embarrassing amount of Sternberg's pastries. They're sold in the bakery each morning, with customers taking a perch on the plush booths or communal table, complete with a mural of the local area, to share hazelnut brown butter croissants or, my favourite, artichoke, sage and Lancashire cheese Pain Suisse. An enormous open kitchen and copper bar connects the bakery to the dining room, which, by night, becomes a low-lit space for long, convivial suppers. We settled into one of the booths, with a front-row seat to the open kitchen with its The Bear energy. First, oxtail crumpets arrived – crispy on the outside, fluffy in the middle, topped with melty ragu and a moreish dripping crumb; I would happily order six of these on my next visit. We ordered the crab tart, which was zingy and fresh, and the radicchio with clementine and fresh cheese, which was, for me, one of the few misses on the menu. Things were turned back around when the mains arrived: blushing roast lamb with cavolo nero and, my highlight, delicate partridge. This buzzy new spot might already be beloved by locals, but we'd put money on it becoming a destination table-to-book whatever your neighbourhood.
Address: Don't Tell Dad, 10-14 Lonsdale Road, London NW6 6RD
Price: ££
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Canteen, Notting Hill
Walking along Portobello Road on a freezing Friday evening in January, I had that slightly nervous feeling you get when a favourite film goes for a sequel in a little-too-close-for-comfort succession. Since 2021, the Public House group has blessed us with not one, not two, but three really great boozers: The Pelican in Notting Hill, The Hero in Maida Vale, and The Bull in Charlbury – a cosy country pub with beautiful rooms and pies worth travelling nearly two hours out of London for.
Except Canteen 310 isn’t a pub but a slick, casual Italian, and any worries about the success of this latest opening quickly disappear when we spot the queue of people still waiting for a table at 9pm. Inside, the place is buzzing. In fact, it’s packed; if this is the month for staying home, avoiding booze and sticking to a joy-free diet then, happily, my fellow diners didn’t get the memo. The design is cool without feeling gimmicky – all steel panelling, marble table tops and raw concrete floors. Perched at the bar, we sip dirty martinis, tuck into salty chunks of focaccia dunked in olive oil and watch as the team glide around the open kitchen with ease, plating up piles of steaming pasta, carving slices from a giant piece of roasted porchetta and stretching pizza dough.
Head chef Jessica Filbey, formerly River Cafe, is responsible for the daily-changing menu, which is posted to Instagram and then artfully scrawled onto steel panels above the kitchen. The menu and the drinks list are stripped back – we count three wines and five beers, while just two pizzas (one meat, one veggie) and four pastas makes ordering your dinner fuss-free.
Our pumpkin, sage and parmesan risotto is exactly what you want to eat on a cold evening – rich, peppery and comforting – but the sobrasada and mascarpone pizza is the hero, the tang from the dollops of sobrasada perfectly balanced by creamy, lemony mascarpone. There’s just enough space for chocolate mousse – spooned onto the plate, slicked with olive oil and sprinkled with sea salt. We’re not even out of the door before we’re planning our return. Sarah Allard
Address: Canteen, 310 Portobello Road, London W10 5TA
Price: ££
Website (walk-ins only)
Best new London restaurants in December 2024
Miga, Hackney
Contrary to popular belief, sometimes the best things in life aren’t free; they’re hard-earned — a theory which would explain the success of Miga, more than 22 years in the making. A refined yet wholesome family affair, the contemporary Korean eatery arrived on Mare Street, Hackney, in June, care of chef Hyun Sang Ko, and his two sons, both named Jae Ko. Borrowing its name from their family’s first restaurant in New Malden — which Hyun Sang’s ‘wifey’ revived as a takeaway during the Pandemic and continues to run today — its offering draws inspiration from dishes passed down from the brothers’ grandmother, who was crowned one of Seoul’s top three chefs in the 1970s. A pared-back white space styled with walnut accents, an unimposing open kitchen, and wide-eyed patrons nodding at one another in delight, the dining room plays host to a much-loved type of Korean cooking rarely found nor celebrated in London’s restaurant scene — not ‘fast’, barbequed or fine dining, but home-style flavours, cooked and served with the utmost precision and skill. Warming, tangy, fresh, hot, sweet and funky, here every craving has an antidote: a broth, stir fry, bibimbap or braised meat offered by team members who aren’t just happy to help but to educate, too. Jo Taylor
Address: Miga, 1 Mare Street, London E8 4RP
Price: ££
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The Grill at The Hero, Maida Vale
Even before you’re sat at your table, The Grill bedazzles with its grand 1870s proportions, its intricately plastered high ceilings, distressed walls painted in pale terracotta, and natural light that pours through chipped and splintered wooden window frames. This Maida Vale gastropub manages to be both stately and yet understated, like a beautiful woman who doesn’t wear make-up. And the food is just as gorgeous. The owners of Notting Hill’s Pelican, the Bull in Charlbury, and the Canteen have launched their most recent venture one floor above The Hero pub and established what might be the best restaurant in the city right now. The reassuringly concise menu mixes simple British pub classics with elegant seafood (and makes very few concessions to vegetarians – so it is best to leave your herbivore friends in the pub downstairs). Our first starter, raw beef seasoned with black pepper on a crunchy hash brown, was a satisfying take on beef tartare, while the coarse country pork leg paté burst into life when slathered with mustard. Best of all was the wild Scottish girolle and oyster mushrooms topped with an oozy confit egg yolk. If items like the sweetbread (lamb pancreas) with tasty lobster sauce might wrinkle some noses, it’s only at a deeply principled level since all dishes were executed flawlessly, including the turbot main in parsley butter sauce and – my favourite – the utterly divine parsnip puree and venison, which was neither overcooked nor too gamey. Equally memorable were the sides: my huge mountain of French fries was so flavoursome I forgot to ask for my mandatory ketchup. In theory, the cheddar shavings couldn’t possibly offset the bitterness of sprouts, yet somehow they did and with aplomb. While gulping down a mouthwatering brown butter sorbet for dessert, I kept one eye on the neighbouring table’s sleek-looking lemon tart, which was a knockout, too. Let’s hope this culinary star never fades. Noo Saro-Wiwa
Address: 55 Shirland Road, Maida Vale, W9 2JD
Price: £££
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Agora, Borough
If you walk through Borough Market on any night, you’ll see a queue snaking opposite The Globe Tavern, packed with people happily sipping cocktails and in surprisingly good spirits, given the wait. They’re hoping to secure a table at Agora, the hot restaurant housed underneath foodie favourite Oma, where piping hot spreads, skewers and salads are constantly being passed around as diners look on hopefully, praying that their wait is finally over.
It’s easy to see why this place has caused such a stir among Londoners; it’s fun, fast-paced, new, and delicious. From David Carter, the mastermind behind Smokestak and Manteca, the Greek-inspired menu offers a selection it’s hard not to feel hungry for: creamy hummus topped with crushed hot crisps, an incredible Greek salad second only to the ones I ate on the island of Andros this summer, and a spicy pork sausage flatbread with spit roast pineapple and hot honey. Combined with a fun cocktail menu that feels like it was designed to sit alongside the food (the acidic Lemongrass Paloma was an ideal accompaniment for the fatty, grilled meats on the menu) and a vast wine selection – including their own that’s delicious and at under-£ 6 a glass – it’s worthy of the hype. And while there are many things in London I would not queue for, I truly would wait for Agora again. Abigail Malbon
Address: Agora, 4 Bedale Street, London SE1 9AL
Price: ££
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